Chili, Chile, or Chilli?

From my Petaluma Post column:

Yes I mean Chili, summer time BBQs are a great time for Chili.  But there is so much controversy

over this simple dish.  Do you make Chili con carne (chili with meat)?  Do you put beans in it (heavens no)?  Is yours red or is yours green?  However you might make it, American’s love chili hot dogs to chili cook-offs.  It’s time to try your hand at a batch and create your own recipe

Chili comes from the root of Chile meaning chile peppers a key ingredient in the dish.  Originally chili con carne was made up of a combination of red meat, salt and chile peppers.   Introduced to the crowds at the 1893 Columbian exposition in Chicago by the San Antonio Chili Stand it spread through the south and west.  Every restaurant and “Chili Bar” has their own recipe and of course a secret ingredient, one of the most interesting is Cincinnati style chili, also known as 5 way chili.  Start with Spaghetti Noodles, then chili, kidney beans or corn, cheddar cheese and grated cheddar cheese.

I find chili to be a crowd pleaser and a great dish to do in large quantities.  I am not a traditionalist and will often be creative with my ingredients.  We recently paired a Lamb Chili with wine from Dutcher Crossing Winery during the annual Passport Weekend.  Dutcher Crossing is well known for big red wines often with a touch of Syrah grapes.  We paired their Cabernet Sauvignon with a Lamb Chili con Carne.

 

Lamb Chili (yield 1 gallon)

4 lbs Ground Lamb

9 oz Onions, diced

28oz Tomatoes, canned, diced

1 oz Chili Powder

½ oz Garlic Powder

¼ oz Cumin

¼ oz Paprika

3 grams Pepper Flakes

2 cups Roasted Vegetable Stock

Brown the lamb in oil with the onions, then add the spices and stock and cook for about 5 minutes.  Finally add the tomatoes and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour.

A few weeks later, to contrast with the lamb chili I went in the opposite direction for Cinnabar Theatre’s annual Chili Cook Off.  Let’s go green with “its good to be green”; we are a green certified company and proud of it, so when we entered the cook off here in Petaluma I decided to do a green vegetarian chili. Yes, I know a purist will say chili can’t even have beans in it, let alone be vegetarian, but chili is what you make it.  What do I mean by green?  First no tomatoes, instead we used tomatillos which add a great tang to the chili.  I used fresh chili both Anaheim chiles and Pasilla chiles to add texture and then also dried green New Mexico chiles.  Using green chiles also keeps the heat down.  Then we went with white beans versus the traditional red beans, and it came out a winner.  Winning both the People’s Choice and Judges Choice for best vegetarian chili.  – Thanks to everyone who voted for us.

Vegetarian Chili (yield 1 gallon)

1 lbs White Beans, dried

1 lbs Tomatillos, crushed, canned

8 oz Pasilla Chiles

8 oz Anaheim Chiles

5 oz Green Chili, diced, canned

12 oz Yellow Onion

1/8 cup Vegetable oil

2 gm Cumin

7 gram Chili Powder

2 cups Roasted Vegetable Stock

2 tsp lime juice

½ cup Green Enchilada Sauce

Salt & Pepper to taste

Start by soaking the beans for 12 to 24 hours, and drain them thoroughly just before use.  Sauté the onions, garlic and diced chiles in vegetable oil, and then add the cumin and chili powder.  Cook it for 5 to 8 minutes, until it becomes fragrant.  Next add the drained beans and cover with the roasted vegetable stock and add the tomatillos (smashed with juice) and lime juice.  Cook over medium heat for 1½ to 2 hours (until beans are tender). Finish with some of the diced chiles and enchilada sauce.  And to really make it pop, serve it with a dollop of Cilantro Cumin Crema and some more diced green chilies for color.

Cilantro Cumin Crema

1 cup Sour Cream

½ bunch Cilantro Tops

1 Tbs Fresh Lime Juice

1 tsp Cumin

½ tsp Vegetable Oil

Salt & Pepper to taste

So red chiles or green chiles, beans or meat, tomatoes or tomatillos, spicy or mild, it’s time to grab a pot and create your recipe.  Enjoy

And in case you’re curious, because I was when my spell checker didn’t like “chiles”;  while chili refers to the above recipes, when it comes to the peppers chile, chili, or chilli, with or without an extra e when making it plural are all acceptable.  And an argument could be made that any of those spellings could be used for the above recipes as well.  Digging deeper, some of it seems regional and it has changed over time.  My advice is to go with what you like.  I like chile pepper because the spelling speaks to the word’s Spanish origin.

Cheese, Bacon & Bourbon!

From my Petaluma Post column:

Happy Butter & Eggs Day!  What a wonderful celebration of Petaluma and our heritage.  I don’t often talk about myself in my articles; I am a home grown kid born and raised right here in Petaluma.  My family dates back five generations to my great great grandfather coming over from Holstein Germany to work a dairy ranch in Tomales.  I have lived in Europe, I went to college in NY and worked in the LA area, but I think the best place on earth is right here in Petaluma.  You cannot beat the quality of product and the pride that we have in it!

I recently got to participate in the Chef vs Chef at the Artisan Cheese Festival in March.  Being a local I decided to pair with two other locals for my entry.  Thanks to Larry Peters and Spring Hill Farms for the use of two or their cheeses; a two year aged white cheddar and a garlic jack.  These two cheeses are also featured on our Sonoma County Bounty display we often have at catering events.  A big shout out to Hoot and team at Kastania Winery for their 2011 Proprietors Blend that we paired with.

Now I know what you are waiting for - just what did we make? An adult grilled cheese with bacon.  It is a bite sized savory grilled pimento cheese cake with bourbon brown sugar bacon.  Yes I said bourbon brown sugar bacon!  At the writing of this I don’t know how we will do but I have my fingers crossed.

So where did Pimento cheese come from?  I love southern cuisine.  After a trip to New Orleans a couple of years ago my interest has increased.  I have always made a good fried chicken (my nephew will say the best) and have started adding more southern dishes to my repertoire.  The dishes of our southern states are considered by many to be the most quintessential example of American food, and certainly one of the most recognizable regional cuisines.

The origin of pimento cheese is not that elegant, it is the result of two processed foods.  In the early 1900 a food scientist was trying recipes to get more Americans to purchase prepared foods.  It was a combination of canned pimentos and cream cheese.  In its heyday each family would have had their own treasured recipe.  Many cookbook authors referring to it as the “caviar of the south”.  From dainty tea sandwiches to school lunches to workman it was a mainstay.  Now considered a retro dish it was fun to play with.

My recipe is a bit dryer and mixed more than is traditional in order to hold up to molding it in to little cakes and browning it.

Pimento Cheese Cake

Pimento cheese cake with bourbon, brown sugar, bacon, pickled baby peppers

1 cup Shredded Sharp Cheddar (I used white)

1 cup Shredded Garlic Jack

6 oz Cream Cheese

¼ cup Mayonnaise

½ tsp Dijon Mustard

¼ tsp Garlic Powder

¼ tap Cayenne Pepper

4 oz drained diced Pimentos (drain very well)

Place all ingredient except the peppers in a bowl and mix with an electric mixer.  Mix until it comes together, then add the peppers and mix until just combined.  At this point you can form in to a large cheese ball or just use as a spread.

To make the little cakes form it in to ¾ oz balls using a small ice cream scoop, and roll between your hands to make them round.  Then roll them in bread crumbs, and press into a patty.  Chill over night or freeze.

Heat a medium skillet over medium high with about 2 tablespoons of oil.  You will need to work fast so the cakes don’t melt.  Brown each on both sides then remove to a paper towel to remove any extra fat.

Brown Sugar Bourbon Bacon

8 oz medium thick bacon

4 oz bourbon

4 ox brown sugar

1/8 t salt

1/8 tsp black pepper

Pinch cayenne

Place the bacon in a heavy bottom skillet, add the bourbon.  Bring to a boil, and cook until the bourbon is gone and you have just bacon and fat.  The bacon will still be very limp.  Remove the pan from the heat and drain, and transfer the bacon to a bowl and allow to cool until you can handle it.  Next toss with the brown sugar, salt, pepper and cayenne.  Toss Well. Lay out on a rimmed cookie sheet or baking dish and bake at 350 degrees for 12 to 15 minutes, until crisp.  When cool, julienne for topping.

To Assemble: Top each pimento cake with just a dab of whipped cream cheese as an adhesive.  Top with a pinch of the bacon bits, bit of diced pimento pepper and parsley for garnish.  Enjoy.

Are you in a pickle?

From my Petaluma Post column:

Did you know that the third week of May is national Pickle Week?  In past articles I have mentioned

pickles on my Gastro Pub station, they pair well with so many things.  I love pickles; as a kid I loved the bread and butter pickles that my grandmother would make, there is nothing like a good kosher pickle on a cheese sandwich, and cornichons are a must on a charcuterie platter.

Pickling is defined as the preserving of food by either anaerobic fermentation in brine or immersion in vinegar.  The way this works is by the use of salts and vinegars to lower the pH of food to below 4.6 which will not allow bacteria to grow.  I have been experimenting with a number of different icebox pickles.  Icebox pickles as opposed to heat pasteurized pickles which are more shelf stable but have a different texture.  I am lucky that we have a large enough walk-in refrigerator that I can keep a couple of large buckets of my pickles around.

The first thing that I looked at is what to pickle. Cucumbers seem to be the first thought, yes I like those.  Then other vegetables, when searching the web I found a recipe for almost anything that you can imagine from carrots to cherry tomatoes.  You will want to keep in mind that the salt and vinegar can pull the color out of the vegetables making them a bit drab.  I have had great luck with cauliflower, carrots, onions and red bell peppers.  You might ask what about fruits?  Do you realize that sugar is an acid? So in a way making jam is doing the same change in pH.  I have had fun with Apples and Persimmons, but people do tend to think of veggies as pickles.

The big question is are you doing a sweet or sour pickle.  Although it is not an entirely fair question since my sweet pickles are still tangy.  All of the pickles that I have made so far are quick pickles meaning they are ready to eat within 24 hours.  These are prepared vegetables (washed and cut) that a boiling liquid is poured over then allowed to cool.  When cool (if you can wait) they are ready to eat or store in the refrigerator.

One of the first places I started experimenting was with Vietnamese food.  Bahn Mi sandwiches are a street food staple that pairs Asian tastes with French cuisine.  A crusty baguette, sliced pork loin, pate, cilantro, sliced jalapenos, chili mayonnaise topped with a pickled vegetable combination of carrots and daikon radish.  The pickled vegetables add a bright clean finish to the rich sandwich - try them on a burger some time.

Bahn Mi Pickled Slaw

4 oz julienne carrots

4 oz julienne daikon

½ cup white vinegar

¼ cup water

¼ cup white sugar

Bring the sugar, vinegar and water to a boil, then pour over the vegetables.  Allow to cool, then drain when ready to use.  A great addition to any sandwich for a tangy crunch.

The next direction that I went in was doing my own pickled cucumbers and at the same time carrots.  There is one major difference, I use the same brine (sugar, salt, vinegar combination) but with the cucumbers I salted them for 2 hours to help draw out moisture so the bine could be absorbed

Pickled Cucumber or Carrots

The veggies

2 pound Persian cucumbers – cut into ¼” slices, toss with 1 cup salt, rest for 2 hours, rinse well

OR 2 pounds carrots sticks

1 red bell pepper - cut into strips

1 red onion, small - cut into strops

Place in a food safe plastic bucket, glass jar or crock with lid.

The Brine

6 oz white sugar

½ cup apple cider vinegar

½ cup water

1 oz salt

½ tsp mustard seed

¼ tsp celery seed

Combine all ingredients, bring to a boil, and then pour over the vegetables.  If the brine does not cover the vegetables, place a weighted plate into container to press them; they will shrink.  Allow to cool, then refrigerate.  Ready within 12 to 24 hours. Stores well for up to 30 days.

After you have tried the first recipe try other vegetable and think about adding different spices; one of my favorites was cauliflower with a bit of curry powder.

Moving on from there I tried changing out the water with beer to create our Hop Stoopid Pickled Cauliflower.  Hops often have a bitter after taste, but the combination in this pickle was just perfect for a rich beer flavor with no bitterness.

Hop Stoopid Pickled Cauliflower

2 heads cauliflower – broken into florets

1 – 20 oz bottle Lagunitas Hop Stoopid

1 cup water

3 cup vinegar

1 pound sugar

2 oz salt

1 tsp pepper corns

½ tsp mustard seed

1 Tbl chopped garlic

Clean and prep the cauliflower, then place in a food safe plastic bucket, glass jar or crock.  Bring the remaining ingredients just to a boil.  Careful, hoppy beer is a bit delicate, you don’t want a heavy boil.  Add the cauliflower in to the brine, bring to simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. Place in a food safe plastic bucket, glass jar or crock.

From carrots to cauliflower you’ll always be in a pickle (in a good way).

A Little Bit of Sunshine

From my Petaluma Post column:

In my mind January is probably the darkest month of the year, the holidays are put away, the days are short, the rain and maybe even snow are coming down.  You know that you have eaten too much.  How can we brighten these days?  How about a bright ray of culinary sunshine - citrus!

Funny to think that the brightest color crop of the year comes ripe at the darkest time of the year.  From lemons to grapefruits and tangerines, citrus can bring a bright flavor and healthy touch to your diet.

Right off the bat in January we start with Meyer lemons being in season.  As you drive around town you will see lemon bushes overflowing with fruit, most likely in our area they are Meyer lemons.  A hearty plant that can be grown well in both the ground and wine barrels (it does need to be covered from frost).  It is my favorite of the citrus world.  Thought to be a cross between a lemon and tangerine coming originally from china.  With a thin skin and sweeter juice and flesh it makes it a great cooking candidate.  One of my favorite recipes is Meyer lemon marmalade.  A great way to put it away to use year round.

Meyer Lemon Marmalade

chevre buttons with meyer lemon marmalade

3 lbs Meyer lemons

3 cups sugar

Wash then lemons well, then juice them, and put the juice aside.  Then cut the remains in to 4 pieces and remove seeds (they have lots of seeds).  Next, thinly slice the quarters, including the interior.  Bring 8 cups of water to a boil and blanch the lemons for 1 minute; this will remove any bitterness from the skins.  Drain and place in a heavy bottom pot, and add the sugar and lemon juice.  Add just enough water to cover.  Bring to a boil until the sugar is dissolved, then turn down the heat to a simmer - watch carefully so you don’t burn it - simmer approx. 30 minutes until the rinds are tender.  Place in five ½ pint jars - can or freeze.

Serve on Chèvre with Crackers - Wow!

Another citrus that comes out the first of February is blood oranges. Very popular in the southern areas of Europe, it has an added health benefit of anthocyanin, an anti-oxidant.  The red flesh with just a bit bitter is a great mixer for cocktails. Try using it to brighten up your next Brunch or party.  Great in a mimosa, wonderful for Blood Orange Margaritas, although my favorite is in an Gin and Tonic with Blood Orange.

Clementines are just a handful of joy.  Their perfect size and loose skin make them a great grab and go snack.  This relative of the tangerine is seedless.  Keep a bowl on the counter for healthy between meal snacks.  Or peel and add to a salad for a bright touch of flavor.  A squeeze on a piece of fish is a great use too

But what are Mandarin Oranges you ask?  Clementines, Tangerines, and Satsumas are all varieties of the mandarin orange.  Nutritionally and in flavor they are very similar.  Satsumas are typically the easiest to peel; the fruit is almost entirely detached inside the skin, making them a very convenient snack.  However Clementines are almost as easy to peel and they are also seedless, which I really appreciate.  These are the ones often labeled as “Cuties” in the grocery store.  So why bother with a Tangerine?  If you want the full orange experience, with that little puff of orange oil when you break the skin, and the reward of well peeled orange, then this is the way to go.

Ruby Red grapefruit is an all-time favorite too (I have lots of favorites when it comes to citrus).  I remember my grandmother every morning having a half of grapefruit with just a little sprinkle of salt to bring out the sweetness.  High in potassium and vitamin C, and can help to lower Cholesterol.  With a very thick skin and bitter membrane, it is best to eat just the pulp or juice of this fruit.  Chefs often refer to cutting out of each segment as a supreme.  In the winter months when local crab is in season, one of our favorite dishes is a Crab, Avocado and Grapefruit Cocktail.

Crab, Avocado and Grapefruit Cocktail

2 oz local crab meat

4-5 grapefruit segments

½ avocado, diced

Layer in a Martini glass - a great start to any dinner party.

Citrus can brighten any day with flavor and flair.  Try something new today.

Mash, Mash, Mash

From my Petaluma Post column: (ok, I'm a little tardy on posting again...oops)

What is the favorite dish at your holiday meal?  With my family it is the mashed potatoes.  Rich creamy buttery mashed potatoes plus lots of gravy.  One of the nice things about mashed potatoes is how simple they are and how well they hold.  It is a great dish to take to potlucks and office dinners.  They can be basic, fancy or speak to old regional traditions.

Let’s start with the basics.  What potato to mash?  There are two potatoes that we often use, Russet Potatoes and Yukon Golds.  I grew up on Russet potatoes, they make a nice light fluffy mashed potato.  They tend to be a bit dryer and take milk and butter well.  I wash and peel the potatoes, cut them into even pieces, usually thirds, cover with water and boil until tender.  Russets should be drained immediately.  If you are not going to mash immediately you can hold them drained on the back of the stove for 30 to 45 minutes.  Mash with butter, milk, salt and pepper.

Yukon Golds also make great mashed potatoes; they have a firmer texture and are a bit creamier.  Yukons are not usually peeled so they have a bit more of a rustic look.  The skins are tender enough to eat without difficulty.  Again, cut the potatoes into even pieces, cover with water and boil until fork tender.  However these can be held in their water for 20 to 30 minutes until you get to the mashing.  Milk, butter, salt and pepper are the traditional additions.

Mashed potatoes hold very well; if traveling or simply needing to hold them, place them in an ice chest wrapped in plastic and a table cloth to keep them warm and moist.  They will hold hot for up to 2 hours and free up space in your oven.  One trick that we use for the catering company to hold them in the oven is to cover them with plastic wrap and then foil.  The plastic wrap will keep the moisture in, and the foil will keep the plastic wrap from melting.

Now let’s get creative… when I married my husband I was a potato purest.  Don’t mess with the mash.  My mother-in-law always added carrots to hers for color.  By adding just 2 to 3 carrots at boiling, and finishing normally the carrots add a touch of sweetness and color.

There are others that can be fun too.  Yams are a great way to go.  Instead of boiling, just puncture the skin with a fork and bake on a sheet pan.  The sugars will dip out, once tender, allow to cool and then the peels will come right off.  Try mashing with just a bit of butter and brown sugar.  Great to serve with ham and turkey.

One more to try is cauliflower, with the gluten free trend (yes potatoes are gluten free too) this wonderful vegetable is getting tons of interest.

1 head cauliflower, cut up into 2 to 3” pieces

6 cup water

2 Tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper

Bring water to a boil, and add the cauliflower, boil until very tender.  Drain well, this holds a lot of water, so make sure to shake it to help drain properly.  Then return to the pot, mash, and add olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste.

Now that you have mashes down, think about some add-ins.  Grated cheeses are great, you can add texture and flavor; chèvre adds a full flavor, sharp white cheddar is a favorite of mine.  For a rich and decadent variation try substituting mascarpone for the milk.  Roasted garlic can be used to add great creaminess when pureed and mixed in.  Fresh herbs can be added at the last minute for color and flavor.

One of my favorites is the addition of browned butter.  Brown butter is a French method that browns the solid bits in the butter.  It will greatly intensify the butter flavors; I love this approach. Place the butter in a thick sauce pan, melt and bring up to a boil, and immediately turn the heat down to medium.  Continue cooking until the butter begins to turn brown.  Take to a medium color, and remove from the heat.

For more options see my blog (blog.SonomaCaterers.com).  I love potatoes and other root vegetables and over the years have put quite few recipes out there that would be great for the holidays, or just the winter months.  When you get there try searching for “potato” or “yam” to find some good options.  Or search for “Tourtiere Stuffing” to find hubby’s Ganny’s traditional French-Canadian mashed potatoes which includes sausage.

So the next time you are asked to bring a dish, just say yes to the mash! Enjoy and Happy Holidays!

Barbeque Challenge

Here's my August column from the Petaluma Post...

Can you believe that it is already August?  The summer goes by so fast!  But there is still time to get out and enjoy those beautiful evenings. There is nothing better than barbequing to do that.  Here is the challenge that I threw at a group of friends for dinner one night.  Everything on the menu must come off of the BBQ.  We had cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, salad, entrée and even dessert; all off the grill.

Of course, we started with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres.  The cocktail was a grilled peach and bourbon splash with a charred oak swizzle stick.  Cocktails are no longer made with just your simple fresh fruit juices and sodas; there is a new area of flavors coming from shrubs and tinctures.  A shrub is a fruit and vinegar combination that is sweetened and can also be used to make sodas by adding seltzer.  A tincture is an alcohol extract from an herb.  I choose to make something like a shrub, although I omitted the vinegar for this particular recipe. First grilling my peaches on the BBQ, and then combining with lemon juice, sugar and water.  Simmer to release the flavors then stain to get just the liquid.

Grilled Peach “Shrub”

Grilled Peach and Bourbon Splash

5 peaches, split in half and pitted

1 cup sugar

¼ cup lemon juice

2 cup water

Turn your barbeque up to high heat and allow to heat thoroughly; the grates need to be hot for the peaches not to stick.  Place the peaches on the grill, and cook until all sides are well marked (some burn is ok) and the peach is soft.  Then transfer them to a cooking vessel add the other ingredients, bring to a simmer.  Mash the fruit when tender; I used a potato masher.  Continue to simmer for about 30 to 45 minutes, until the desired flavor.  Then strain and chill.

Grilled Peach & Bourbon Splash

1 shot Bourbon

2 shots peach shrub

Club Soda to finish

Served over ice

Shake it well and serve over ice, with a slice of grilled peach on the charred oak swizzle stick for garnish.  It was quite good, but I think I’ll need to try it with a real shrub; I think a little acidity from the vinegar would pair well.

The hors d’oeuvre of the night was a lot of fun too.  Perfect match for the bourbon cocktail! Grilled bacon wrapped onion rings!  You’ve got to live Pinterest.

Bacon Onion Rings

2 lbs bacon - thinner strips 16-20 pieces per pound

2 or 3 large onions

2 Tbl or more Sriracha

Carefully clean the onions, careful not to cut through the rings.  Then cut the onions into half to three quart inch slices.  Break apart to create the rings, leaving 2 ti 3 layers together.  Brush well with Sriracha.  Wrap each ring with 2 to 3 slices of bacon, varying by the size of ring as appropriate.  Use a bamboo skewer to hold the bacon in place and the rings together.  Then BBQ on low, being careful since the bacon can splatter and give you flame ups.  Grill for approximately 30 to 45 minutes.  Keep a close eye on them, you want the bacon to be very crisp, but not burnt. Serve with a Sriracha mayonnaise. So, is wrapping something in bacon healthier than battering and deep frying it?  Not really the point of this, but interesting.  By the way, most people will only eat one or two of these; they are 2 to 3 pieces of bacon each.

Our salad course was a grilled romaine with lemon and parmesan. Yes, you can put lettuce on the BBQ.  Romaine heads work well, the structure allows you to cut the head in half lengthwise and have all of the leave stay attached.  Brush lightly with olive oil, place cut side down on the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.  This will just lightly grill the edges and begin to wilt the center.  Drizzle with fresh lemon juice and sprinkle with fresh grated parmesan cheese, yum.

Our entree of the night was grilled sausages (thank you Thistle Meats).  We tried their mild Italian and a fresh lamb sausage, which were both excellent.  Thistle Meats is a premium specialty butcher featuring locally sourced meats (and you can also get a very good sandwich there too).  They are located at 160 Petaluma Boulevard North, right in the first block of downtown.

How to finish off the evening with a grilled dessert?  No not s’mores, but angel food cake.  Cut the angel food cake into individual serving sizes, turning the grill down to low and toasting each slice.  The flavor was like fresh toasted marshmallow and pound cake.  Then top with strawberries and whipped cream.

Grill, Grill, Grill

Here's my July column from the Petaluma Post...

Summer time is here and the grill is heating up.  Steaks, chicken, and hot dogs, but there is so much more…

Have you ever thought of a grilled salad?  Both savory and sweet items can be a great addition.  Try adding some grilled fruit to a spinach salad, the sugars in the fruit will caramelize and add a great flavor.  Peaches are a favorite; figs, plums, apples and pears are excellent finished with a drizzle of Honey and Balsamic.  Dress your salad with a light fruity dressing, pair with Chèvre or crumbled blue for an added zing.

Spinach Salad with Grilled Fruit

2 peaches

1 apple

6 figs

Olive Oil, salt and pepper

8 oz baby spinach

2 oz crumbled blue or Chèvre

1/3 cup fruit vinegar

½ cup olive oil

Honey to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tsp Honey

1 tsp balsamic

Cut the peaches in quarters, core and slice the apple into ½ inch rounds, halve the figs, then toss lightly in olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Next thread the figs on bamboo skewers to keep intact. Grill everything for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown and tender.  Allow them to cool, then slice the peaches, apples and figs into bite size pieces. Display on a platter.

Combine balsamic with honey, and drizzle over the  grilled fruit to finish

Combine the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and honey to create a vinaigrette, then toss with the spinach and cheese.

Grilled vegetables are a staple at our house; zucchini, yellow squash, and asparagus are some of our all-time favorites. In the last couple of years I have been adding some other great items.  Have you tried baby carrots?  Slices of butternut squash?  Tomatillos- have a great tang!  When doing vegetables for large events we often bring in a piece of diamond grate (expanded metal mesh) to make sure the vegetables don’t fall through the grill; you can pick this up at any hardware store.  When prepping our vegetables we sort into two categories, hard and soft.  The hard vegetable will take longer to grill, such as carrots, squash, cauliflower, ½ cut onions.  Soft vegetables are zucchini, peppers, asparagus, mushrooms, and tomatillos.

Toss very lightly in olive oil, salt and pepper and your favorite herbs.  Do note, toss very lightly in olive oil, extra oil with cause flare ups which will cause smoke and you will get black soot on your vegetables.  We like to grill our vegetables first, just under done.  Then grill your meats and while they are resting, you can place the covered vegetable back on the grill to reheat and finish cooking.

Have you ever heard of a grilled cocktail?  Adding smoke is a great addition to your summer drinks.  Mescal is a typically smoky variant of tequila (technically tequila is a type of mescal).  Try using it in your next margarita to add a great smoky flavor.  To take that up a notch think about doing grilled limes for an added touch.  They are very easy to do, just split the limes and place on the hottest area of your grill for 5 to 6 minutes.  Juice as normal and add to you cocktail.  FYI: Mario & Johns has a good selection of Mescals (and everything else) and are happy to talk about them.

Mescal Margarita

1½  oz mescal

½  oz triple sec (or Cointreau)

1 oz fresh lime juice (fresh never bottled!)

Lime wedge for garnish

Salt the rim if the glass (optional)

I love the grilled peaches so much that I did it for our open house 5 years ago and I still get requests.

Grilled Peaches with Mascarpone

2 lbs peaches cut in half

8 oz mascarpone

2 Tbl honey

1 Tbl balsamic

2 Tbl olive oil

salt and pepper

Crostini or crackers

Follow the instructions for grilling peaches, expect this time you will cut the peaches in thin slices.  For a display, mound the mascarpone in the center of the platter, surround with the grilled peaches.  Combine the honey and balsamic, and drizzle over the peaches then finish with the olive oil, salt and pepper.

For some more grilling inspirations see my blog (blog.sonomacaterers.com) and search for grilled.  You find grilled artichokes, pork steak (a great cut), and grilled delicata squash salad.  Enjoy!

The Hills Are Alive with Fields of Mustard

Here's my column from the Petaluma Post for April...

As April rolls into Sonoma County our hillsides glow with beautiful yellow mustard blossoms.  But did you

Dandelion Greens

know that you can actually eat them?  The wild mustard plant that we love so much can be found around the world from the Himalayas to Denmark, California to India. 

Growing wild around our area you would not think of eating what so many think of as a weed.  Being a member of the brassica family, like radish/ turnip/broccoli, all aspects of the plant are edible.  The yellow flowers can be picked, yellow, white or purple and tossed in salads to add a light peppery touch.  There are numerous varieties with greens that are eaten, and the seed has been ground for 1000s of years for condiments.  Many consider it a super food being high in vitamins A, C, and D, plus calcium, potassium and iron.

I am not suggesting that you run out to the field and pick your dinner, although many do.  However I would like to recommend taking a different look at your produce basket. Tender mustard greens are the first peek of fresh produce to hit the farmers markets. 

Baby red frill mustard is one of my absolute favorites. In the spring it is tender and lacy and a great addition for spicy salads.

Red Frill Salad

Serves 4

4 oz red frill mustard

1 head escarole (a very hearty leaf green, close in flavor to iceberg)

1 small head fennel, shaved

2 blood oranges, juiced

1 Tbl white wine vinegar

2 Tbl olive oil

1 tsp honey

Salt and pepper to taste

2 oz Chèvre

Trim off the end of the mustard and gently break in to smaller size if necessary.  Cut escarole to bite size pieces, toss with fennel and mustard, and set aside.  Combine, honey, blood orange juice and vinegar, whisk to combine, then whisk in olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.  Toss as needed to coat the greens.  Top with Chevre

Another great use is as an uncooked green.  What do I mean by that?  When making a vegetable sauté I love to throw a hand full of greens in after I have taken the vegetables off the stove, just before serving.  The color just pops, but the integrity of the greens holds up well.  I also often toss my greens with just a bit of salt, pepper and olive oil, and then at plate up put them on the bottom of the plate and top with your hot items.  Grilled

 Salmon or other fish are my favorites, the heat of the meat is just enough to wilt the greens.

Another great spring green is dandelions.  Yes that weed that you pull out of your lawn is also very healthy and edible, but I suggest getting it from your grocer.  The long slender leaves are bright green in color and have a slightly bitter taste.  You want to look for young tender leaves without a thick back vein.  The have a lightly spicy flavor and can be added into many dishes or sautéed on their own.

When cooking greens I like to choose younger greens, usually from the bulk area not bunches. I have found that 6 ounces will be a pretty full bag and about what I need for dinner for 2 people.  It seems that I never have a large enough pot to hold that much; it will wilt down to less than 2 cups at the end, but keeping it all in a small pot is like heard cats.  I have found that if I take a large microwave bowl and place the greens in it and heat for 1 to 2 minutes, they will just begin to wilt and be much easy to handle.

Wilted Greens

1 small onion, sliced

4 strips bacon, chopped

2 Tbl olive oil

6 oz spring mustard, red frill, red rain or dandelion greens

1-2 Tbl balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

Wilt greens in a large bowl in the microwave.  Heat the olive oil in a deep skillet, then add the bacon and onions, and sauté until onions are tender and bacon is cooked through.  Add greens to the bacon and onions, toss through until warm.  Finish with balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper

From flowers to dinner, don’t forget to stop and smell the mustard.

But, But…, No. Butt! Pork Butt That Is

Here's March from the Petaluma Post...

I see lots of chicken, too much tri tip and even more pork loin.  If you can’t guess I am always looking for

Pork Shoulder aka Pork Butt

something new and this time that something new is not new at all.  I have fallen in love with pork butt.  Despite its name this cut does not actually come from anywhere near the butt, it is actually the shoulder. Also known as a Boston Butt, it is a very muscled and marbled cut from the upper shoulder.  Being an area that gets lots of use and movement the meat is a darker red color and has a bit more fat and lots more flavor

Most people use it for pulled pork, a great slow cooked dish that can be done in the oven or the crock pot and serve large groups.  We prepare ours in 70 pound batches cooking at a low temperature overnight.  There are tons of recipes from herbs to coca cola. I like to use a dry rub and cook uncovered long and slow.

PSC’s Dry Rub

8 cups Brown Sugar

4 cups Kosher Salt

1 cup Paprika

1 cup Chili Powder

1 cup Black Pepper

1 cup Granulated Garlic

1 cup Granulated Onion

1 cup Italian Seasoning

¼ cup Cayanne

Place a pork butt in a deep baking dish; there will be lots of run off fat to capture.  You can use a bone in or boneless shoulder.  Bone in will add 1 to 2 hours of additional cooking time. Rub well with the dry rub, and place in a 250 degree oven, and allow to cook overnight; about 8 to 9 hours.  To check for doneness, use tongs to twist the meat; it should pull gently apart.  If using the bone in variety, you can twist the shoulder bone, it should come away easily.  Then allow it to cool before pulling the meat to the desired size pieces.

At this point there are all kinds of uses.  For pulled pork sandwiches, dress with your favorite BBQ sauce and serve on a roll and serve with a classic side of slaw.  Or, simmer in a green chili sauce and serve in corn tortillas for fun tacos. Or, look for a great Asian BBQ sauce and serve with steamed rice.

But if 9 hours of cooking is too long for you, it is also great to slice up and cook on the grill.  Using the boneless shoulder, cut the short way across to create steaks (I like about ¾ of an inch thick).  There will be a few pieces that fall away - those are the chefs nibbles.  Rub with the same dry rub, or an Asian five spice, or event just salt and pepper.  Toss on the BBQ and finish with your favorite sauce. The great flavor of boneless pork ribs but at half the cost.

One of my most recent inspirations is a pork roast.  Cut the roast in half lengthwise and then rub with fennel, thyme and sea salt.  Using butchers twine tie it into long logs, then roast in a 350 degree oven for about 1¼ to -1½  hours, to an internal temperature of 145 degrees.  For many years the cooking temp was supposed to be 160 and just last year the USDA lowered the safe temp to 145 degree.  The meat will still have a blush of pink and the juices will not run clear.  I like to pull it at 140 and allow for carry over cooking to 145.  Allow to rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving.  You will never go back to the classic pork loin.  Great carved for a dinner party and just as good for sandwiches the next day.

From pulled pork to the barbeque, take a new look at a classic and be creative.

“Brinner!”

Here's my next article from the Petaluma Post, enjoy...

We all rush off to work each day with a granola bar or bagel in hand.  Hardly the best way to start the day, but most of us do it.  Saturday or Sunday morning you might go out for brunch, but usually we just don’t have time for breakfast, but why can we only have it in the morning?  Breakfast food is great, so why not dinner.  In our house we call it “brinner”. 

You get home late from work, nothing is thawed and you’re hungry. Very likely there is a carton of eggs in the fridge; there are so many possibilities!  From a quick scramble to a frittata to French toast.  You can make a real and healthy (or not) meal, often easier than dinner, and it feels like a treat.

Frittatas are a great place to start.  This Italian egg dish can use up many of your leftovers in the fridge.  From chopped meats to veggies and grated cheese.

Frittata

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

6 eggs, beaten

 ½ tsp salt

¼ tsp pepper

1 oz grated cheese, you can use any you like, parmesan is great

1 cup of chopped filling

Broccoli, asparagus, potatoes, ham, sausage, mushrooms, and peppers all make great frittata filling.  The ingredients are endless.

Heat a 10 inch oven proof skillet with 1 tablespoon of oil.  Meanwhile beat the eggs with salt and pepper, then fold in cheese and filling.  Your pan should now be very hot (not smoking), so pour the egg mixture into pan, and stir with heat proof rubber spatula for 2 to 3 minutes.  Then transfer the pan to a 350 degree oven, and bake until the center is set.  If the frittata sticks, put it back on the stove top for just a minute of two and gently release with a rubber spatula.

Some of my favorite combinations are: Potato and Ham with Cheddar, Mushroom and Asparagus with Chèvre, and Cherry Tomatoes and Basil with Parmesan.

I love a tartine; this is an open faced warm sandwich. And to make it a bit more, I love to add a fried egg on top.

Tartine

1 slice hearty country bread

“Refrigerator Relish” (again anything in the fridge that you can chop up)

1 oz grated cheese, I recommend Cheddar or Jack

1 egg fried

Brush the bread with olive oil and toast lightly in the oven, then top with chopped veg and/or meats, then finish with grated cheese.  Bake at 350 degrees until the cheese is melted (about 5 minutes).  During this time cook your egg over easy.  Remove the tartine from oven top with egg.  I like it best served with a lightly tossed salad; to me salad is perfect to cut the richness of the eggs.  It’s best with a light vinaigrette.  By the way, Topsy, a new restaurant on Kentucky Street has this on the menu; it’s very good.

I love salad with my eggs.  I find that it cuts down on the richness.  So whether is this is breakfast for dinner, or dinner for breakfast, I like a very classic French salad called Salad Lyonnaise.  This is great at any time of day.

Salad Lyonnaise

2 strips bacon

1 T olive oil

1 Tbsp sherry vinegar

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp dijon mustard

2 eggs, poached or over easy (my favorite)

1 head frisee lettuce

1 slice toasted country bread

Cut the bacon into ½” pieces, then with olive oil sauté until crisp.  Set the bacon aside, and transfer the bacon drippings and oil to a mixing bowl, and allow to cool.  When cool add vinegar, sugar and dijon, whisk well.  Drizzle ½ of the this as the dressing over the frisee and toss well.  Place the frisee on the plate, and top with 1 fried egg

Top with cooked bacon and drizzle with remaining dressing, serve with toast.

When I was growing up I loved corn bread and one item my mom used to do was cornmeal pancakes.  A basic corn bread recipe (a bit thinner) cooked on the stove top.  Think of this with some bacon or sausages for dinner.

Cornmeal Pancakes

1 cup flour

1 cup cornmeal

2/3 cup sugar

1 tsp salt

3 tsp baking powder

1 egg

1 cup milk (add 2 Tbsp more if too thick)

1/3 cup veg oil

Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl.  In a separate bowl mix the wet ingredients.

Add the wet to the dry and stir well.  Allow to sit 10 minutes, then check the thickness for pancake batter consistency; add extra milk if necessary.  Heat your pan or grill to a medium heat and scoop the batter to preferred size.  Once bubbles have formed turn over and cook 2 to 3 more minutes.  Serve warm.

And if you have a bit more time, a quiche (also a good way to clean out the fridge) with a salad it always nice, served warm or room temperature.  So, next time you get home late, put on your PJs and make some brinner.

Brunches, Lunches and Dinners

And now for the Christmas article from the Petaluma Post...

How do you celebrate Christmas?  I like to make my meals a bit more extravagant.  Thanksgiving is very traditional, but Christmas is time to play.  With family, in-laws and friends you are likely to be moving from house to house.  Maybe you are you are making dinner, maybe breakfast, or maybe just something to bring along.  But just because you are not making dinner does not mean it cannot be special.

I love brunch, anytime of the year, but with catering there are not a lot of Sundays off to enjoy it.  A relaxed Christmas morning is a perfect time for some great food.  Yes the kids are running around with toys and the house is full of guests, but with a little planning you can enjoy the morning too.  Your oven is your best friend. Ham is great hot or cold, travels well, and can be nibbled on all day long.

Cranberry Glazed Ham

9 lbs Ham, bone in, not spiral cup

1 cup whole berry cranberry sauce

1 Tbl dry mustard powder

2 Tbl brown sugar

1 Tbl ground clove

Pre heat the oven to 350 degrees.  Place the ham in a baking dish, fat side up, and score the ham to create a diamond pattern, cutting to about  ¼” depth.  Place the ham in the oven, and bake uncovered for 45 minutes.  Meanwhile mix the remaining ingredients to create the glaze, and spoon liberally over the ham.  Continue baking for an additional 45 minutes to 1 hour.  If the glaze starts to get too dark, cover with foil.  Carve and enjoy.

How about bread pudding for breakfast?  We think of it as a dessert, but it really is just bread, milk and eggs, just like French toast.  But it keeps and travels much better than French toast.

Breakfast Bread Pudding

5 eggs

2 cups milk

1 cup sugar (or to your taste)

½ tsp cinnamon

2 tsp vanilla

3 cups cubed bread

¼ cup butter

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup pecans

Combine milk, eggs, cinnamon, vanilla and sugar, and whisk together.  Pour over bread chunks, and allow to sit for approximately 30 minutes to absorb.  Pour into a buttered 9x13 baking dish.  Crumble the butter and pecans together and sprinkle over the top.  Finally bake 35 to 45 minutes at 350 degrees, until set.  Serve warm.

A midday meal can be a great place to change up a few of the holiday favorites.  What about pie for lunch?

My mother-in-law makes a great French-Canadian meat pie, a Tourtière, which is a very simple sausage and mashed potato pie.  Which I would serve with something like a Butternut Gruyer Tart and Tender Greens with Craisins and Pomegranate Vinaigrette.

Tourtière

2 pies crusts (top and bottom)

1 lbs russet potatoes

2 Tbl milk

1 Tbl butter

4 oz ground sweet sausage

4 oz ground beef

1 small onion

1tsp ground sage

½ tsp thyme

Peel and boil the potatoes, then mash with butter and milk; set aside.  Brown the beef, pork and onion with the herbs, the crumble and add to mashed the potatoes.  Place the pie crust in deep 9” pie plate and fill with the potato/meat filling.  Top with second crust, and egg wash to seal.  Bake for 30 to 35 minutes at 350 degrees, until golden brown.  Serve warm or room temperature.

Over the years my family has enjoyed doing a wide variety of things for Christmas dinner.  At last we have landed a favorite, fondue and hors d’oeuvres.  We don’t sit down for a meal, this way we can nibble and talk throughout the evening.  It also gives me a chance to play with some fun ideas.

Truffle Devil Eggs

12 eggs

3 Tbl mayonnaise

1 tsp djion mustard

Salt and pepper to taste

1tsp truffle paste or oil

Boil and peel eggs.  I like to cut the eggs in half the short way, trimming the ends to make them stand (they look like a shot glass), just to update the presentation.  Combine the yolks, truffle and mustard in bowl or food processor, and mix until crumbly, then add  the mayonnaise 1tablespoon at a time until thick but pliable.  Finish with salt and pepper.  For an extra bit of extravagance top with Caviar.

If your family is traditional or contemporary add just a bit of extravagance to your holiday, and have a very merry holiday and a happy new year!

And, of course, if you would like some help with your holiday feast we have our special holiday menu as well as all our regulars available at www.SonomaCaterers.com.

A Modern Thanksgiving!

Okay, I've been bad, I forgot to re-post my Petaluma Post articles for the past few months, so let's start with Thanksgiving!

During the month of November we all seem to eat a lot of turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberries, yams…etc.  We get together with friends, with our clubs, and with family, with all the menus being a very slight variation on the turkey day theme.  But, do you really have to do the same menu over and over?  Have some fun with it!  Use the “same” ingredients but in different ways; make it a play on words; use something in a different way

Here are a few of my ideas:

Of course you must have Turkey…..wild turkey… Wild Turkey BOURBON!  And of course cranberries.  Make a cocktail.  A couple of year ago I created a “Happy Pilgrim”, which made our thanksgiving very happy!  It was inspired when I couldn’t find a cocktail that really paired well with Thanksgiving, and this one fits the bill very well.

Happy Pilgrim

 1 shot wild turkey bourbon

 1 shot ginger beer

 2 shots cranberry juice

 1/3 shot blood orange bitters

 Shake and serve over crushed ice

 Garnish with a fresh cranberry

An extra note on this one: When I selected Wild Turkey it was just for the turkey theme; I didn’t have the best impression of Wild Turkey, it just seemed like a lower shelf product, but it is actually quite good, and I’ve found it getting increased respect from craft bartenders.

Let’s go to yams, I’m not talking marshmallow or even maple syrup.  Let’s talk salad.  Thanksgiving is a very rich meal, so cut it with some healthy greens. Tell your family you’re bringing roasted yams and pecan pie!  Well maybe don’t tell them that, I know hubby would be disappointed with salad instead of pie!  But it’s still a great addition to the holiday feast.

Baby Arugula and Chèvre Salad with Yams Croutons and Candied Pecans

6 oz wild baby arugula

2 oz Chèvre

Candied Pecan (see recipe below)

Yam Croutons (see recipe below)

Sherry Vinaigrette (see recipe below)

Just toss the arugula, chèvre and vinaigrette, and finish with the pecans and croutons.

Yam Croutons

1 large yam cut into ½” cubes

1 Tbs olive oil

Salt and pepper

Roast your yam croutons, turning often to allow to brown and crisp evenly (they’ll get brown and slightly crispy on the outside, but stay soft in the center).  While their baking make your vinaigrette by combining the sherry vinegar, olive oil, honey and S&P.  Allow crouton to cook 10 to15 minutes.  You can allow the croutons to cool or toss and serve immediately for a warm salad. 

Candied Pecans (aka Pralines)

¾ cup pecans

½ cup sugar

Water to cover

Place all in heavy bottomed pot and cover with water, and boil till small thick bubbles (10-12 minutes).  Drain and place on greased sheet pan, then bake at 350 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, until dark in color, stirring every 5 minutes.  NOTE: you only need about a third this volume for the salad recipe above, but hey, who doesn’t want extra pralines?

Sherry Vinaigrette

¼ cup sherry vinegar

½ cup olive oil

 2 Tbl honey

 Salt and Pepper to taste

Blend well

As for stuffing, if you have read my articles in the past you know I love stuffing.  But change it up by bringing stuffed apples for dessert.

Baked Stuffed Apples

8 large, Granny Smith Apples

4 Tbs butter

8 Tbs brown Sugar

¼ cup chopped nuts (recommend pecans or walnuts)

½ tsp Cinnamon

Place the apples in baking dish, if they do not stand up easily trim bottoms to balance.

Cut off the top quarter of the apple, then using a melon baller, scoop out the core with the apples.  Combine all other ingredients, and mix till crumbly.  Pack into apple centers.

Bake at 350 degree for 15-20 minutes until the apples are knife tip tender. Serve with vanilla ice cream

What about your pumpkin pie, does pie have to be dessert? What about hand pies, like empanadas.  Do an hors d’oeuvre and start the meal with the usual ending.

Pumpkin Empanadas with Truffle and Parmesan

1 batch of your favorite pie dough - or purchased pie dough sheets

Pumpkin Empanadas

1 cup canned pumpkin

4 oz grated parmesan

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp white truffle oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix pumpkin, parmesan and spices to for a thick paste; taste test, some pumpkin need more salt.  Using a round cutter, cut out 2½” circles from the pie dough, an place 1 tablespoon of filling in each circle.  Egg wash the edges, and seal with your fingers or a fork.  Chill for about 30 minutes (they freeze great if you would like to make them for the future).  When ready to bake, lay out on a cookie sheet, brush with egg wash, and sprinkle with parmesan.  Bake at 350 degrees for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden.

Now let me think about mashed potatoes.  NO.  STOP.  My family will never forgive me if I mess with the mashed potatoes!

Thanksgiving 2013

Every year I write a Thanksgiving blog, and this year I'm going to provide some gluten free (don't groan) ideas; at Preferred Sonoma Caterers we had many more requests for gluten free friendly menus and I've learned quite a bit, a few items I'm actually liking the gluten free options better.  But that's the next blog, so check back next week, and again in the middle of the month for some more modern T-day ideas.  But let's start out the month with revisiting some classics.

Let's start out the afternoon with a Thanksgiving cocktail...  The Happy Pilgrim... hubby and I invented with one a few years ago when we couldn't find a cocktail recipe that went well with Thanksgiving.

Happy Pilgrim
1 shot wild turkey bourbon - must have turkey!
1 shot ginger beer
2 shots cranberry juice
1/3 shot orange bitters
Shake and serve over crushed ice
garnish with a fresh cranberry

Now on to stuffing, classic stuffing is a must, but what is classic stuffing.  It depends on where you are from, or perhaps where Grandma was from.  In my family, the Runge side, the traditional stuffing is a classic bread stuffing.  Lots of celery and onions with plenty of sage.  It is baked in the turkey with extra crusties along the legs.  It reflects the Germanic origin of much of the county.  From my time in Austria I recognize this recipe is very similar to bread dumplings from Germany - my family heritage.

“Traditional” Stuffing
Stuffs a 12 to 14lbs turkey
1 loaf simple white bread - cubed
2 yellow onions - diced
1 small head celery - diced
2 sticks butter
2 Tbs dry rubbed sage
3 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 cups chicken or turkey broth

Sauté onions and celery in butter with the sage till tender.  Place bread cubes, sautéed vegetables and eggs in a large mixing bowl.  Add broth till soft, then season with salt and pepper.  Stuff into a rinsed turkey cavity.  The just a standard roast of the turkey.

In Mr. PSC’s family, from the Otis side of the Balshaw side, there is a potato stuffing that I have come to love.  Part of their heritage is from French Canada and shows in this recipe for Tourtiere.  Traditionally this is meat and mashed potato baked in a pie pan with two crusts and served as a main dish.  But his Granny (or perhaps her Granny) decided it would be better used for stuffing a Turkey.  That is his family’s tradition.

Tourtiere Stuffing
1 lbs breakfast sausage - browned
1 yellow onion - diced
2 lbs Russet potatoes - peeled & boiled
1 Tbs dry rubbed sage
¼ tsp cinnamon
¼ tsp nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
1 to 1½ cups chicken stock

Boil the potatoes till fork tender, then drain and allow to cool slightly. Brown the breakfast sausage and break up with a fork, and remove from the fat.  Add diced onions and spices to fat, sauté till tender.  Mash the potatoes, add the onions and spices, then season with salt and pepper.  Add chicken broth as necessary for texture.  Place in a rinsed turkey or bake in a pie pan (with or without crust) on the side.

You might be wondering about the difference between dressing and stuffing.  The only real difference is geography.  Northerners call it stuffing, while Southerner’s prefer dressing.  One of the most used components in southern dressing is corn bread.  Not what most of us consider corn bread, but a denser version that is cut and laid out to dry.  Corn bread has a much crumblier texture so the stuffing is much softer.

Cornbread
make up to 2 days in advance
2 cup yellow cornmeal
2/3 cup plain flour
1 tsp salt
4 tsp baking soda
1 1/3 cup milk
2 eggs - beaten
6 Tbs veggie oil

Mix the dry ingredients, add the wet ingredients, then bake in a 9 x 13 pan for 20 to 25 minutes at 350 degrees.  Allow to sit out and dry for 24 to 48 hours.

Corn Bread Stuffing
1½ cup celery - chopped
1½ cup onion - chopped
4 Tbs butter
3 cups turkey or chicken broth
1 tsp sage - ground

Sauté the onions and celery in butter, add sage, then add to the crumbled cornbread.  Add liquid to soften.  Now it is ready to stuff in your turkey and roast.

Many of you out there might have the addition of a vegetarian to your Thanksgiving table.  The question is what to serve that they will enjoy.  What about stuffing a pumpkin?  Small sugar pumpkins are perfect for this.  When choosing your pumpkin make sure that is labeled as a cooking pumpkin.  Choose one medium size and free of blemishes, wash, cut off the top approximately a third of the way down.  You will need to scoop out the seeds and string, the rub the interior lightly with salt and pepper before stuffing.

You can use the pumpkin as an extra vessel for more stuffing (more stuffing is always great), or make it a dish of its own, with another stuffing.

Turkey, of course.  But how to cook it.  A few years ago I experimented with several different methods (brine, deep fry...), but in the end it was the classic that won.  If you would like to know the results you can find them at http://blog.sonomacaterers.com/2010/11/turkey-day-prep-down.html.  And don't let my opinion stop you from experimenting, it was a lot of fun

Of course you can always take the easy way out.  Every year we offer a full Thanksgiving meal for 8 to 10 to go.  Just re-heat and voila, Thanksgiving!  Or just order a few of the dishes the make life easier.  You can find the Thanksgiving catering menu at http://www.sonomacaterers.com/2013Thanksgiving.pdf

Happy Thanksgiving!
A

Not So Delicate, Delicata

So what is Delicata?  It is a distinctive winter squash.  It is actually in the same family as zucchini (a summer squash) but ripens later in the year with a harder flesh that needs to be cooked more like a winter squash.  It is shorter and thicker than a zucchini, with yellow skin and green to orange stripes.  It is also known as peanut squash or bohemian squash.  Delicata has gained in popularity greatly in the last couple of years and is one of my favorites.  The reason being is that it is smaller in size; perfect for two people, plus the skin is edible, so no peeling required.

Season for delicata starts in late September and is often available in to May.  It is very versatile and can move from your summer time menus into winter dinners.  The flavor is delicate, with a firm but creamy flesh.  I recommend it for grilling and roasting but not necessarily soups.

For summer time think about adding it to your grilling vegetables. To prep this long squash, you need to remove the seeds.  Then I recommend cutting it into rounds or crescents.  For grilling I recommend cutting them approximately a quarter inch thick then toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Allow a few minutes longer grilling than the rest of your veggies.

Grilled Delicata

1 delicata squash

1 zucchini

1 small red onion

1 red bell pepper

8 oz button mushrooms

¼ cup olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat your grill to medium heat, cut all vegetables in to equal sizes, toss with olive oil and spices.  Start grilling with your delicata squash; it will take 7 to 8 minutes per side depending on thickness, second should be your onions.  When you turn the deicata move them to the outer edges of the grill to cook slower then add in the remaining veg.  Turn once or twice, cooking about 7 to 8 minutes. Try finishing them with just a splash of Balsamic vinegar

Delicata “Croutons”

Roasting delicata makes it perfect for adding to a salad and you can have some fun.  Prepare as above cutting into crescents.  Approximately ¼ inch thick,  lay out on a cookies sheet and sprinkle with olive oil and salt and pepper.  Place in a 350 degree over for about 10 minutes, then turn, but before returning to the oven sprinkle lightly with  2 tablespoons of brown sugar mixed with 1/8 teaspoon of cayenne or chili powder.  Bake another 7 to 8 minutes.  Allow to cool completely, then toss a nice salad of arugula, pumpkin seeds and Chèvre, toss with Sherry vinaigrette and finish with your squash.

The vegetarian options with the squash are numerous.  Think of it as an edible container.  Cutting it into either tall cylinders or lengthwise for boats.  It will hold up to being roasted in advance or roasted with a filling.

Delicata Squash & Caramelized Onions

Think of a gluten free Alsatian Tart

3 Tbsp butter

2 lbs thinly sliced onions

¼ tsp dried thyme

1 tsp salt

½ tsp black pepper

1 cup heavy cream

4 eggs

Heat the butter in a heavy bottom pot till bubbly, add in thinly sliced onions, salt and thyme.  Turn down to medium low, stirring often, and cook to a golden caramelized color, then set aside and cool.  Combine the cream and eggs, whisk well.  Season onions with pepper and place into squash boats.  Finally, fill to the edge with cream egg mixture.  Bake approximately 30 minutes until the tip of a knife cuts easily through.  (PS – the traditional tart has bacon in it).

Enjoy

A

One Potato, Two Potato

Here's my September column from the Petaluma Post. Enjoy...

No, no, there are many more than two kinds!  Have you recently taken the time to look at potatoes at your

Potato Gratin

farmers’ market?  Are they red, yellow or blue?  Are they Russian or Yukon or whatever?  What ever happened to the traditional russet?  Let me help you through at least a few of the many thousands of kinds of potatoes that are out there.

The first thing to learn about is starch.  This is important for how each kind of potato is best used.  Are you making a salad?  You need a boiling potato, which typically contains approximately 16-18% starch.  This means that they will hold together after boiling, cutting and mixing.  For that light and fluffy baked potato you want a more floury or mealy (baking) potato which has more starch (20–22%) .  This is better for roasting and for baking, and also for making gnocchi.

We are lucky locally to have several farmers growing a large variety of potatoes.  Some of my favorites are Yukon Gold for mashing, Baby Red for salad, Idaho Russet for baking (it was created by our own Luther Burbank!), Russian Banana for roasting and most of all Yellow Finns for roasting wedges.  Yellow fin are my favorite.

A few years ago at home when we planted a potato bed, we put in several varieties and waited to see what would come up.  It was almost like an Easter egg hunt when it came time for harvest.  We missed a few little ones and a plant two comes up every year, and I always find the mystery potatoes to be a fun treat.

Herb Dijon Potato Salad with Roasted Red Peppers

Serves 10-15

3 lbs small red potatoes

2 red bell peppers

6 stalks celery- diced

½ bunch Italian parsley, chopped

¼ cup whole grain Dijon mustard

¼ cup sherry vinegar

½ cup olive oil

 Salt and pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a pot large enough to cover with 3” of water, then cover with cold water and boil until tender, testing with the tip of a knife.  Drain and allow to cool completely, then slice into bite size pieces. 

Roast the red peppers by placing under the broiler or over the gas burner, blacken on all sides.  Afterward place the peppers in a plastic bag to sweat for 5-10 minutes, and then the skins should slip right off (a nice chef’s trick).  Finally cut into julienne strips

Combine all ingredients, and you may serve either warm or chilled.  If preparing ahead, withhold the parsley till serving, to keep it from wilting and add a pop of color.

Potato Gratin

Serves 8-10

3 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

8 oz grated parmesan

½ tsp thyme

1 tsp salt and pepper

¼ cup olive oil

Thinly sliced the potatoes, rinse in cold water, and drain well.  Combine all ingredients and place on and edged baking sheet, spreading evenly.  Bake at 350 degrees for 35-40 minutes until golden and knife tip tender.

Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes

Served 4-6

2 lbs yukon gold potatoes

4 oz butter

½ cup ½ & ½

Salt and pepper to taste

Cut potatoes to uniform size, cover with cold water and boil till tender. 

Brown butter is a French method that browns the solid bits in the butter.  It will greatly intensify the butter flavors; I love this approach. Place the butter in a thick sauce pan, melt and bring up to a boil, and immediately turn the heat down to medium.  Continue cooking until the butter begins to turn brown.  Take to a medium color, and remove from the heat.

Drain the potatoes, mash by hand or machine, add the butter, then the half and half.  Season with salt and pepper.

If you would like a few more creative potato recipes or would like to know the difference between a sweet potato and yam, see my blog (blog.sonomacaterers.com) and search for “potato”.