One Potato, Two Potato

Here's my September column from the Petaluma Post. Enjoy...

No, no, there are many more than two kinds!  Have you recently taken the time to look at potatoes at your

Potato Gratin

farmers’ market?  Are they red, yellow or blue?  Are they Russian or Yukon or whatever?  What ever happened to the traditional russet?  Let me help you through at least a few of the many thousands of kinds of potatoes that are out there.

The first thing to learn about is starch.  This is important for how each kind of potato is best used.  Are you making a salad?  You need a boiling potato, which typically contains approximately 16-18% starch.  This means that they will hold together after boiling, cutting and mixing.  For that light and fluffy baked potato you want a more floury or mealy (baking) potato which has more starch (20–22%) .  This is better for roasting and for baking, and also for making gnocchi.

We are lucky locally to have several farmers growing a large variety of potatoes.  Some of my favorites are Yukon Gold for mashing, Baby Red for salad, Idaho Russet for baking (it was created by our own Luther Burbank!), Russian Banana for roasting and most of all Yellow Finns for roasting wedges.  Yellow fin are my favorite.

A few years ago at home when we planted a potato bed, we put in several varieties and waited to see what would come up.  It was almost like an Easter egg hunt when it came time for harvest.  We missed a few little ones and a plant two comes up every year, and I always find the mystery potatoes to be a fun treat.

Herb Dijon Potato Salad with Roasted Red Peppers

Serves 10-15

3 lbs small red potatoes

2 red bell peppers

6 stalks celery- diced

½ bunch Italian parsley, chopped

¼ cup whole grain Dijon mustard

¼ cup sherry vinegar

½ cup olive oil

 Salt and pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a pot large enough to cover with 3” of water, then cover with cold water and boil until tender, testing with the tip of a knife.  Drain and allow to cool completely, then slice into bite size pieces. 

Roast the red peppers by placing under the broiler or over the gas burner, blacken on all sides.  Afterward place the peppers in a plastic bag to sweat for 5-10 minutes, and then the skins should slip right off (a nice chef’s trick).  Finally cut into julienne strips

Combine all ingredients, and you may serve either warm or chilled.  If preparing ahead, withhold the parsley till serving, to keep it from wilting and add a pop of color.

Potato Gratin

Serves 8-10

3 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

8 oz grated parmesan

½ tsp thyme

1 tsp salt and pepper

¼ cup olive oil

Thinly sliced the potatoes, rinse in cold water, and drain well.  Combine all ingredients and place on and edged baking sheet, spreading evenly.  Bake at 350 degrees for 35-40 minutes until golden and knife tip tender.

Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes

Served 4-6

2 lbs yukon gold potatoes

4 oz butter

½ cup ½ & ½

Salt and pepper to taste

Cut potatoes to uniform size, cover with cold water and boil till tender. 

Brown butter is a French method that browns the solid bits in the butter.  It will greatly intensify the butter flavors; I love this approach. Place the butter in a thick sauce pan, melt and bring up to a boil, and immediately turn the heat down to medium.  Continue cooking until the butter begins to turn brown.  Take to a medium color, and remove from the heat.

Drain the potatoes, mash by hand or machine, add the butter, then the half and half.  Season with salt and pepper.

If you would like a few more creative potato recipes or would like to know the difference between a sweet potato and yam, see my blog (blog.sonomacaterers.com) and search for “potato”.

I yam what I yam

Here's my November column from the Petaluma Post:


Sweet Potato Coins with Chevre and Tapenade

I yam what I yam, but am I really?  Yes I am a yam, not a sweet potato, no really a yam.  So what is a yam you ask, not just an over cooked thanksgiving side dish covered with marshmallows.  I am so much more!

To really confuse things we rarely ever see a true yam in the US, they are a tropical tuber; sweeter than sweet potatoes and often with red or purple flesh, but can be white, with a brown or black skin. For our purposes let’s stick to our local definition.

In the US yams and sweet potatoes are both actually varieties of sweet potato, but are widely different in color and texture.  What we call “sweet potatoes” are usually a lighter colored flesh with a thin light colored skin.  The “yam” is the darker red skin with a vibrant orange flesh (full of beta carotene).  Both skins are completely edible.

For so many years the yam has been put aside to be eaten only one time a year.  My family on the other hand served them year round.  Mom would bake just them like a potato in the oven alongside a meatloaf or other dishes.  We would split them open with butter and a touch of brown sugar for a simple side dish.  But as I have expanded my own cooking I have add them to our regular repertoire.

Baking Sweet Potatoes
Baking a whole sweet potato (approx. 7 oz) will take 45 minutes to 1 hour to bake in a 350 degree oven.  Prick the skin and make sure to place it on a cookie sheet or foil as it will drip a bit.

But who actually has an hour to make dinner.  My favorite preparation is to slice into ½” to ¾ ” inch slices, toss with olive oil, salt, pepper and cumin and layout on a cookie sheet to bake.  They take about 20 to 25 minutes at 350 degree.

Using this method I have added them to several other dishes.  One of our favorites is Arugula and Chèvre Salad with Yam croutons.

Arugula and Chèvre Salad with Yams

1 large yam cut into ½” cubes, prepared as above
6 oz wild baby arugula
2 oz chèvre

Vinaigrette

¼ cup sherry vinegar
½ cup olive oil
2 Tbl honey
Salt and Pepper to taste

Roast your yam croutons, turning often to allow to brown and crisp evenly (they’ll get brown and slightly crispy on the outside, but stay soft in the center).  While their baking make your vinaigrette by combining the sherry vinegar, olive oil, honey and S&P.  Allow crouton to cook 10 to15 minutes.  You can allow the croutons to cool or toss and serve immediately for a warm salad.  Just toss the arugula, Chèvre and vinaigrette, and finish with croutons.  I often serve this with grilled pork loin or ribs.

I have used the same technique to make yam coins for hors d’oeuvres, when trying to find ingredients for gluten free or vegan items.  Purchase yams that are approx. 1” around and cut at 1/4” and bake till firm.  Try topping with Chevre, tapenade, hummus or almost anything.

Pecan Yam Pie

One of my favorite desserts is made with yams Pecan Yam Pie
1 9” pie crust
1 lbs yams, baked plain, cooled and mashed (yield 1¼ cup)
1 egg
¼ cup brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
¼ tsp clove
¼ tsp nutmeg
¼ cup cream

Topping

1¼ cup sugar
1¼ cup corn syrup
3 eggs
1 cup pecans
3 Tbl melted butter

Place the pie shell on a foil lined baking sheet as this could get messy from bubbling over.  Combine the yams, eggs, cream and spices, and whisk well till smooth.  Spoon into the pie crust, spreading evenly.  Combine the topping ingredients, and pour over the yam mixture.  However if you want to get creative don’t put mix in the pecans, instead you can use whole pecans and lay them out in a pattern,  then combine the rest of the topping ingredients and pour over the top.  Bake at 325 degrees for approximately 1½ hours or until a knife inserted comes out clean.  Allow to cool well.

Factoid:  While the origin of the term sweet potato is obvious, it’s like a potato but sweet.  But what about yam?  The story I’ve heard goes, a European explore in Africa asks a native what that potato like thing was, the response was nyami, which means “it’s to eat”.  But the explorer heard Yam and assumed that was the name of the thing.

Root Vegetables - There is so much to love (The Petaluma Post)

In case you missed the paper, here's my March column from The Petaluma Post...

Rutabagas, parsnips and carrots oh my. The last of the winter crops are still around, so let’s take the time to enjoy them while we can. Although they have never been the most beautiful items from the garden or the most fashionable on the menu, they have been a staple. But with the current back to basics trend they are being elevated to new levels.


These vegetables are high in starch and can be fibrous. Two of the best cooking methods are roasting and soup. When shopping for your root vegetables make sure to watch for medium size roots (too large can be fibrous and too small under developed), make sure they are heavy for their size (they have been stored correctly and not dehydrated). They will hold quite well in your refrigerator, 2 to 3 weeks in the crisper drawer, but make sure that you take them out of their bags and allow to rest loose.

Carrots are making a huge come back with the organic farmers, you can find them in a great array of colors from yellow to red and classic orange. The heirloom varieties are best at a small to medium size for great flavor. Parsnips are actually white carrots with a similar sweet flavor but a bit heartier in texture.

Turnips are a round white root often with purple shoulders; they are much wetter and crisper than the others, both the root and greens are often eaten, and have a great peppery flavor. Try cutting them up like carrots sticks. Rutabagas also known as yellow turnips are actually a cross between a turnip and a cabbage and a bit meatier with a sweeter flavor.

Roasted Root Vegetables (serves 6 to 8)
1 lb each Carrots, Turnips, Rutabagas, Parsnips
1 Red Onion
1 Fennel Bulb
¼ cup Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper

Peel all of the root vegetables and cut into similar size pieces (I enjoy carrot stick size as they pile nicely on the plate). Peel the red onion and cut into wedges. Clean the fennel and cut into wedges. Place all in a mixing bowl and toss with olive oil (this can be done several hours in advance). Lay out in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake till tender. I like a higher heat 400 to 425 degrees for a bit of color around the edges for 25 to 30 minutes. They should be fork tender.

Yam vs Sweet Potato, which is which? To really confuse things we rarely ever see a true yam in the US, they are a tropical tuber; sweeter than sweet potatoes and often with red or purple flesh, but can be white, with a brown or black skin. For our purposes let’s stick to our local definition.

In the US yams and sweet potatoes but are both actually varieties of sweet potato, but are widely different in color and texture. What we call “sweet potatoes” are usually a lighter colored flesh with a thin light colored skin. The “yam” is the darker red skin with a vibrant orange flesh (full of beta carotene). Both skins are completely edible.

Recently at home I did a sweet potato / yam tasting. Purchasing one of each of similar size, washed and pricked the skin with a fork and placed in the oven to bake just like a russet potato. They took a bit longer than a potato (about 1 hour), then split them open and served with butter, salt and pepper. The sweet potato was lighter and fluffier, obviously a higher starch potato, where the yam was sweeter and denser. Yams (orange flesh / dark skin) are best for things like casseroles and hash. Sweet potatoes (white flesh / light skin) are better for baking, mashing or making fries.

I used the remainder of the yam to make a quick hash to have with breakfast the next day.

Yam Hash (serves 2 to 3)
1 baked Yam, peeled and chopped into 1” square
½ Yellow Onion, diced
2 Tbl Butter
Salt and pepper

Sauté the onion in butter, when tender add in the chopped yam, sauté gently until the yam browns, being careful to watch since the high sugar content will burn.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes (serves 4 to 6)
4 lbs of Sweet Potatoes
¼ cup Butter
¼ cup Milk
Salt and Pepper to taste

You can also add a dash of cinnamon or 1 to 2 tablespoons of Honey or Maple syrup. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut into quarters, place in a pot and cover with 3” to 4“ of water. Boil till fork tender, 15-20 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain completely. Mash by hand or with a mixer. This reheats very well and is great for potlucks.

Enjoy
A

I yam what I yam

I've been rather lax getting my columns from the Petaluma Post re-posted here, so look for one a week for the next few weeks.  Enjoy!

I yam what I yam.  But am I really?  Yes I am a yam, not a sweet potato, no really a yam.  So what is a yam you ask, not just an over cooked thanksgiving side dish covered with marshmallows.  I am so much more!

To really confuse things we rarely ever see a true yam in the US, they are a tropical tuber; sweeter than sweet potatoes and often with red or purple flesh, but can be white, with a brown or black skin. For our purposes let’s stick to our local definition.

In the US yams and sweet potatoes are both actually varieties of sweet potato, but are widely different in color and texture.  What we call “sweet potatoes” are usually a lighter colored flesh with a thin light colored skin.  The “yam” is the darker red skin with a vibrant orange flesh (full of beta carotene).  Both skins are completely edible.

For so many years the yam has been put aside to be eaten only one time a year.  My family on the other hand served them year round.  Mom would bake just them like a potato in the oven alongside a meatloaf or other dishes.  We would split them open with butter and a touch of brown sugar for a simple side dish.  But as I have expanded my own cooking I have add them to our regular repertoire.

Baking Sweet Potatoes
Baking a whole sweet potato (approx. 7 oz) will take 45 minutes to 1 hour to bake in a 350 degree oven.  Prick the skin and make sure to place it on a cookie sheet or foil as it will drip a bit.

But who actually has an hour to make dinner.  My favorite preparation is to slice into ½” to ¾ ” inch slices, toss with olive oil, salt, pepper and cumin and layout on a cookie sheet to bake.  They take about 20 to 25 minutes at 350 degree.

Using this method I have added them to several other dishes.  One of our favorites is

Arugula and Chèvre Salad with Yam croutons.

Arugula and Chèvre Salad with Yams

1 large yam cut into ½” cubes, prepared as above

6 oz wild baby arugula

2 oz chèvre

Vinaigrette

¼ cup sherry vinegar

½ cup olive oil

2 Tbl honey

Salt and Pepper to taste

Roast your yam croutons, turning often to allow to brown and crisp evenly (they’ll get brown and slightly crispy on the outside, but stay soft in the center).  While their baking make your vinaigrette by combining the sherry vinegar, olive oil, honey and S&P.  Allow crouton to cook 10 to15 minutes.  You can allow the croutons to cool or toss and serve immediately for a warm salad.  Just toss the arugula, Chèvre and vinaigrette, and finish with croutons.  I often serve this with grilled pork loin or ribs.

I have used the same technique to make yam coins for hors d’oeuvres, when trying to find ingredients for gluten free or vegan items.  Purchase yams that are approx. 1” around and cut at 1/4” and bake till firm.  Try topping with Chevre, tapenade, hummus or almost anything.

Pecan Yam Pie

One of my favorite desserts is made with yams Pecan Yam Pie

1 9” pie crust

1 lbs yams, baked plain, cooled and mashed (yield 1¼ cup)

1 egg

¼ cup brown sugar

1 tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp clove

¼ tsp nutmeg

¼ cup cream

Topping

1¼ cup sugar

1¼ cup corn syrup

3 eggs

1 cup pecans

3 Tbl melted butter

Place the pie shell on a foil lined baking sheet as this could get messy from bubbling over.  Combine the yams, eggs, cream and spices, and whisk well till smooth.  Spoon into the pie crust, spreading evenly.  Combine the topping ingredients, and pour over the yam mixture.  However if you want to get creative don’t put mix in the pecans, instead you can use whole pecans and lay them out in a pattern,  then combine the rest of the topping ingredients and pour over the top.  Bake at 325 degrees for approximately 1½ hours or until a knife inserted comes out clean.  Allow to cool well.

Factoid:  While the origin of the term sweet potato is obvious, it’s like a potato but sweet.  But what about yam?  The story I’ve heard goes, a European explore in Africa asks a native what that potato like thing was, the response was nyami, which means “it’s to eat”.  But the explorer heard Yam and assumed that was the name of the thing.

Mash, Mash, Mash

From my Petaluma Post column: (ok, I'm a little tardy on posting again...oops)

What is the favorite dish at your holiday meal?  With my family it is the mashed potatoes.  Rich creamy buttery mashed potatoes plus lots of gravy.  One of the nice things about mashed potatoes is how simple they are and how well they hold.  It is a great dish to take to potlucks and office dinners.  They can be basic, fancy or speak to old regional traditions.

Let’s start with the basics.  What potato to mash?  There are two potatoes that we often use, Russet Potatoes and Yukon Golds.  I grew up on Russet potatoes, they make a nice light fluffy mashed potato.  They tend to be a bit dryer and take milk and butter well.  I wash and peel the potatoes, cut them into even pieces, usually thirds, cover with water and boil until tender.  Russets should be drained immediately.  If you are not going to mash immediately you can hold them drained on the back of the stove for 30 to 45 minutes.  Mash with butter, milk, salt and pepper.

Yukon Golds also make great mashed potatoes; they have a firmer texture and are a bit creamier.  Yukons are not usually peeled so they have a bit more of a rustic look.  The skins are tender enough to eat without difficulty.  Again, cut the potatoes into even pieces, cover with water and boil until fork tender.  However these can be held in their water for 20 to 30 minutes until you get to the mashing.  Milk, butter, salt and pepper are the traditional additions.

Mashed potatoes hold very well; if traveling or simply needing to hold them, place them in an ice chest wrapped in plastic and a table cloth to keep them warm and moist.  They will hold hot for up to 2 hours and free up space in your oven.  One trick that we use for the catering company to hold them in the oven is to cover them with plastic wrap and then foil.  The plastic wrap will keep the moisture in, and the foil will keep the plastic wrap from melting.

Now let’s get creative… when I married my husband I was a potato purest.  Don’t mess with the mash.  My mother-in-law always added carrots to hers for color.  By adding just 2 to 3 carrots at boiling, and finishing normally the carrots add a touch of sweetness and color.

There are others that can be fun too.  Yams are a great way to go.  Instead of boiling, just puncture the skin with a fork and bake on a sheet pan.  The sugars will dip out, once tender, allow to cool and then the peels will come right off.  Try mashing with just a bit of butter and brown sugar.  Great to serve with ham and turkey.

One more to try is cauliflower, with the gluten free trend (yes potatoes are gluten free too) this wonderful vegetable is getting tons of interest.

1 head cauliflower, cut up into 2 to 3” pieces

6 cup water

2 Tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper

Bring water to a boil, and add the cauliflower, boil until very tender.  Drain well, this holds a lot of water, so make sure to shake it to help drain properly.  Then return to the pot, mash, and add olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste.

Now that you have mashes down, think about some add-ins.  Grated cheeses are great, you can add texture and flavor; chèvre adds a full flavor, sharp white cheddar is a favorite of mine.  For a rich and decadent variation try substituting mascarpone for the milk.  Roasted garlic can be used to add great creaminess when pureed and mixed in.  Fresh herbs can be added at the last minute for color and flavor.

One of my favorites is the addition of browned butter.  Brown butter is a French method that browns the solid bits in the butter.  It will greatly intensify the butter flavors; I love this approach. Place the butter in a thick sauce pan, melt and bring up to a boil, and immediately turn the heat down to medium.  Continue cooking until the butter begins to turn brown.  Take to a medium color, and remove from the heat.

For more options see my blog (blog.SonomaCaterers.com).  I love potatoes and other root vegetables and over the years have put quite few recipes out there that would be great for the holidays, or just the winter months.  When you get there try searching for “potato” or “yam” to find some good options.  Or search for “Tourtiere Stuffing” to find hubby’s Ganny’s traditional French-Canadian mashed potatoes which includes sausage.

So the next time you are asked to bring a dish, just say yes to the mash! Enjoy and Happy Holidays!

Summer Picnics

Here's my July column from the Petaluma Post.

When I think of summer the first thing that comes to mind is picnics. Be it a family gathering, getting together with friends and kids by the pool or an annual company event. After our long wet winter and spring everyone just wants to get outside for a bit. Planning a picnic is always a lot of fun. Family and friends offer to bring dishes or specialties, while you fill in the spaces.

Planning for those hot summer days, cold items are always a favorite; from chilled fried chicken to watermelon there are so many classics to choose from. But how about a gourmet twist on those classics...

Watermelon Salad with Feta and Mint

Serves 8 to 10

3 lbs Peeled Seedless Red or Yellow Watermelon

2 stems Mint

8 oz Crumbled Feta

¼ cup Sherry Vinegar

Cut the water melon into 1 inch cubes. Chiffonade (very thinly slice) the mint and add to the watermelon. Add the rest of the ingredients and toss gently. It is best prepared the same day. Serve well chilled.

Potato salad is a picnic staple, many people are leery of using mayonnaise when planning an out door event, however if you are using a commercially prepared product (Best Foods or other) you are generally safe. The preservatives added to make it shelf stable also help to keep your salad safe (although you still want to keep it a cool as you can). When making your salad, be sure that all of the ingredients are fully cooled before mixing and then allow the salad to chill over night in the refrigerator. A tasty twist is…

Turkish Potato Salad

Serves 8 to 10

3 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes

2 Lemons

1 bunch Parsley

1 bunch Green Onions

½ cup Olive Oil

Salt & Pepper to taste

Boil the potatoes till fork tender, cool then slice into bite size pieces. Zest and juice two lemons and mix with olive oil. Chop the green onions and parsley. Toss everything together, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transporting your picnic can be tricky. The bowl and other containers never seem to fit easily into the ice chest, and if they do they can make it very heavy. Try transporting things in plastic Ziploc bags and bringing your serving bowls on the side. The bags will mold to the shape of the chest, and this way the food can be transported submerged in ice and stay fresh.

When it comes to a favorite food for my family, ribs are it! My niece and nephew can each eat their weight. Ribs are a great picnic food that can be completely prepared ahead at home and eaten cold or just warmed on the grill when you are ready. A few tips for better ribs:

• I really like using Spare ribs; they are cut from the top of the rib rack, small and tender.

• When preparing your ribs there is a membrane on the underside of the bone that should be peeled away before do anything else. It is not permeable and your rub, sauce, whatever will just brush off. Use a paring knife to lift the thin film away from an edge, when you have about 1 inch up take hold of it and just pull it off, it should strip away easily. This will also help the ribs separate after cooking.

• Season with a dry rub and partially cooking in the oven before grilling.

• The last step should be the BBQ sauce so that it does not burn.

Here is my dry rub recipe. I have been known to give it as a gift, it is so popular.

Dry Rub

Yields 1 quart (enough for about 100 ribs)

2 cups Brown Sugar

1 cups Kosher Salt

¼ cup Paprika

¼ cup Chili Powder

¼ cup Black Pepper

¼ cup Granulated Garlic

¼ cup Granulated Onion

¼ cup Italian Seasoning

1 Tbl Cayenne

Just mix it all together. Store in an air tight container in a cool dry place.

Ribs!

Serves 6 to 8

3 racks of Spare Ribs (average Costco package - we know we all shop there)

1 cup Dry Rub

Remove the under skin from ribs, then use dry rub on both sides, allow to rest 2 to 3 hours or over night in the refrigerator. Place curved side down on a baking sheet and bake 2 hours at 250 degree, long and slow. This can be done up to 4 days before the party. Day of the party place on a low grill and just heat through. Glaze with your favorite sauce just before service.

One recipe that is dear to my heart was prepared by Grama, and is still a family classic. It’s simple (too simple really) and for my sister and I it elicits childhood memories (probably why we like it so much).

Graham Cracker Sandwich

2 packages Graham Crackers

½ cup Butter

1½ cup Powdered Sugar

2 Tbl Cocoa

1 to 2 Tbl Milk

This is a classic quick frosting that can be used in many places. Soften butter, place it, the sugar and cocoa in a mixing bowl and mix on low till combined. Add milk as necessary to make it smooth and spreadable. Spread between two Graham crackers, wrap in wax paper and refrigerate or freeze (even better).

Enjoy

A

Thanksgiving 2013

Every year I write a Thanksgiving blog, and this year I'm going to provide some gluten free (don't groan) ideas; at Preferred Sonoma Caterers we had many more requests for gluten free friendly menus and I've learned quite a bit, a few items I'm actually liking the gluten free options better.  But that's the next blog, so check back next week, and again in the middle of the month for some more modern T-day ideas.  But let's start out the month with revisiting some classics.

Let's start out the afternoon with a Thanksgiving cocktail...  The Happy Pilgrim... hubby and I invented with one a few years ago when we couldn't find a cocktail recipe that went well with Thanksgiving.

Happy Pilgrim
1 shot wild turkey bourbon - must have turkey!
1 shot ginger beer
2 shots cranberry juice
1/3 shot orange bitters
Shake and serve over crushed ice
garnish with a fresh cranberry

Now on to stuffing, classic stuffing is a must, but what is classic stuffing.  It depends on where you are from, or perhaps where Grandma was from.  In my family, the Runge side, the traditional stuffing is a classic bread stuffing.  Lots of celery and onions with plenty of sage.  It is baked in the turkey with extra crusties along the legs.  It reflects the Germanic origin of much of the county.  From my time in Austria I recognize this recipe is very similar to bread dumplings from Germany - my family heritage.

“Traditional” Stuffing
Stuffs a 12 to 14lbs turkey
1 loaf simple white bread - cubed
2 yellow onions - diced
1 small head celery - diced
2 sticks butter
2 Tbs dry rubbed sage
3 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 cups chicken or turkey broth

Sauté onions and celery in butter with the sage till tender.  Place bread cubes, sautéed vegetables and eggs in a large mixing bowl.  Add broth till soft, then season with salt and pepper.  Stuff into a rinsed turkey cavity.  The just a standard roast of the turkey.

In Mr. PSC’s family, from the Otis side of the Balshaw side, there is a potato stuffing that I have come to love.  Part of their heritage is from French Canada and shows in this recipe for Tourtiere.  Traditionally this is meat and mashed potato baked in a pie pan with two crusts and served as a main dish.  But his Granny (or perhaps her Granny) decided it would be better used for stuffing a Turkey.  That is his family’s tradition.

Tourtiere Stuffing
1 lbs breakfast sausage - browned
1 yellow onion - diced
2 lbs Russet potatoes - peeled & boiled
1 Tbs dry rubbed sage
¼ tsp cinnamon
¼ tsp nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
1 to 1½ cups chicken stock

Boil the potatoes till fork tender, then drain and allow to cool slightly. Brown the breakfast sausage and break up with a fork, and remove from the fat.  Add diced onions and spices to fat, sauté till tender.  Mash the potatoes, add the onions and spices, then season with salt and pepper.  Add chicken broth as necessary for texture.  Place in a rinsed turkey or bake in a pie pan (with or without crust) on the side.

You might be wondering about the difference between dressing and stuffing.  The only real difference is geography.  Northerners call it stuffing, while Southerner’s prefer dressing.  One of the most used components in southern dressing is corn bread.  Not what most of us consider corn bread, but a denser version that is cut and laid out to dry.  Corn bread has a much crumblier texture so the stuffing is much softer.

Cornbread
make up to 2 days in advance
2 cup yellow cornmeal
2/3 cup plain flour
1 tsp salt
4 tsp baking soda
1 1/3 cup milk
2 eggs - beaten
6 Tbs veggie oil

Mix the dry ingredients, add the wet ingredients, then bake in a 9 x 13 pan for 20 to 25 minutes at 350 degrees.  Allow to sit out and dry for 24 to 48 hours.

Corn Bread Stuffing
1½ cup celery - chopped
1½ cup onion - chopped
4 Tbs butter
3 cups turkey or chicken broth
1 tsp sage - ground

Sauté the onions and celery in butter, add sage, then add to the crumbled cornbread.  Add liquid to soften.  Now it is ready to stuff in your turkey and roast.

Many of you out there might have the addition of a vegetarian to your Thanksgiving table.  The question is what to serve that they will enjoy.  What about stuffing a pumpkin?  Small sugar pumpkins are perfect for this.  When choosing your pumpkin make sure that is labeled as a cooking pumpkin.  Choose one medium size and free of blemishes, wash, cut off the top approximately a third of the way down.  You will need to scoop out the seeds and string, the rub the interior lightly with salt and pepper before stuffing.

You can use the pumpkin as an extra vessel for more stuffing (more stuffing is always great), or make it a dish of its own, with another stuffing.

Turkey, of course.  But how to cook it.  A few years ago I experimented with several different methods (brine, deep fry...), but in the end it was the classic that won.  If you would like to know the results you can find them at http://blog.sonomacaterers.com/2010/11/turkey-day-prep-down.html.  And don't let my opinion stop you from experimenting, it was a lot of fun

Of course you can always take the easy way out.  Every year we offer a full Thanksgiving meal for 8 to 10 to go.  Just re-heat and voila, Thanksgiving!  Or just order a few of the dishes the make life easier.  You can find the Thanksgiving catering menu at http://www.sonomacaterers.com/2013Thanksgiving.pdf

Happy Thanksgiving!
A

Brunches, Lunches and Dinners

And now for the Christmas article from the Petaluma Post...

How do you celebrate Christmas?  I like to make my meals a bit more extravagant.  Thanksgiving is very traditional, but Christmas is time to play.  With family, in-laws and friends you are likely to be moving from house to house.  Maybe you are you are making dinner, maybe breakfast, or maybe just something to bring along.  But just because you are not making dinner does not mean it cannot be special.

I love brunch, anytime of the year, but with catering there are not a lot of Sundays off to enjoy it.  A relaxed Christmas morning is a perfect time for some great food.  Yes the kids are running around with toys and the house is full of guests, but with a little planning you can enjoy the morning too.  Your oven is your best friend. Ham is great hot or cold, travels well, and can be nibbled on all day long.

Cranberry Glazed Ham

9 lbs Ham, bone in, not spiral cup

1 cup whole berry cranberry sauce

1 Tbl dry mustard powder

2 Tbl brown sugar

1 Tbl ground clove

Pre heat the oven to 350 degrees.  Place the ham in a baking dish, fat side up, and score the ham to create a diamond pattern, cutting to about  ¼” depth.  Place the ham in the oven, and bake uncovered for 45 minutes.  Meanwhile mix the remaining ingredients to create the glaze, and spoon liberally over the ham.  Continue baking for an additional 45 minutes to 1 hour.  If the glaze starts to get too dark, cover with foil.  Carve and enjoy.

How about bread pudding for breakfast?  We think of it as a dessert, but it really is just bread, milk and eggs, just like French toast.  But it keeps and travels much better than French toast.

Breakfast Bread Pudding

5 eggs

2 cups milk

1 cup sugar (or to your taste)

½ tsp cinnamon

2 tsp vanilla

3 cups cubed bread

¼ cup butter

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup pecans

Combine milk, eggs, cinnamon, vanilla and sugar, and whisk together.  Pour over bread chunks, and allow to sit for approximately 30 minutes to absorb.  Pour into a buttered 9x13 baking dish.  Crumble the butter and pecans together and sprinkle over the top.  Finally bake 35 to 45 minutes at 350 degrees, until set.  Serve warm.

A midday meal can be a great place to change up a few of the holiday favorites.  What about pie for lunch?

My mother-in-law makes a great French-Canadian meat pie, a Tourtière, which is a very simple sausage and mashed potato pie.  Which I would serve with something like a Butternut Gruyer Tart and Tender Greens with Craisins and Pomegranate Vinaigrette.

Tourtière

2 pies crusts (top and bottom)

1 lbs russet potatoes

2 Tbl milk

1 Tbl butter

4 oz ground sweet sausage

4 oz ground beef

1 small onion

1tsp ground sage

½ tsp thyme

Peel and boil the potatoes, then mash with butter and milk; set aside.  Brown the beef, pork and onion with the herbs, the crumble and add to mashed the potatoes.  Place the pie crust in deep 9” pie plate and fill with the potato/meat filling.  Top with second crust, and egg wash to seal.  Bake for 30 to 35 minutes at 350 degrees, until golden brown.  Serve warm or room temperature.

Over the years my family has enjoyed doing a wide variety of things for Christmas dinner.  At last we have landed a favorite, fondue and hors d’oeuvres.  We don’t sit down for a meal, this way we can nibble and talk throughout the evening.  It also gives me a chance to play with some fun ideas.

Truffle Devil Eggs

12 eggs

3 Tbl mayonnaise

1 tsp djion mustard

Salt and pepper to taste

1tsp truffle paste or oil

Boil and peel eggs.  I like to cut the eggs in half the short way, trimming the ends to make them stand (they look like a shot glass), just to update the presentation.  Combine the yolks, truffle and mustard in bowl or food processor, and mix until crumbly, then add  the mayonnaise 1tablespoon at a time until thick but pliable.  Finish with salt and pepper.  For an extra bit of extravagance top with Caviar.

If your family is traditional or contemporary add just a bit of extravagance to your holiday, and have a very merry holiday and a happy new year!

And, of course, if you would like some help with your holiday feast we have our special holiday menu as well as all our regulars available at www.SonomaCaterers.com.

Just Stuff It

Here's my November column from the Petaluma Post, enjoy:

In my family when thanksgiving rolls around the stuffing is just as important as the turkey, truth be told, probably more popular.  America being the melting pot that it is, our thanksgiving tables showcase some of this diversity in the most traditional way.  Stuffing is the perfect canvas for the flavors of the world.  From nuts and fruits to exotic spices this holiday shows them well.

In my family, the Runge side, the traditional stuffing is a classic bread stuffing.  Lots of celery and onions with plenty of sage.  It is baked in the turkey with extra crusties along the legs.  The other night we were discussing which was the best- the crunchy or the soggy part; I could not decide they are both so good.  But whichever way you like it, it reflects the Germanic origin of much of the county.  From my time in Austria I recognize this recipe is very similar to bread dumplings from Germany - my family heritage.

“Traditional” Stuffing

Stuffs a 12 to 14lbs turkey
1 loaf simple white bread - cubed
2 yellow onions - diced
1 small head celery - diced
2 sticks butter
2 Tbs dry rubbed sage
3 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
2 to 3 cups chicken or turkey broth

Sauté onions and celery in butter with the sage till tender.  Place bread cubes, sautéed vegetables and eggs in a large mixing bowl.  Add broth till soft, then season with salt and pepper.  Stuff into a rinsed turkey cavity.  The just a standard roast of the turkey.

In Mr. PSC’s family, from the Otis side of the Balshaw side, there is a potato stuffing that I have come to love.  Part of their heritage is from French Canada and shows in this recipe for Tourtiere.  Traditionally this is meat and mashed potato baked in a pie pan with two crusts and served as a main dish.  But his Granny (or perhaps her Granny) decided it would be better used for stuffing a Turkey.  That is his family’s tradition.

 Tourtiere Stuffing

1 lbs breakfast sausage - browned
1 yellow onion - diced
2 lbs Russet potatoes - peeled & boiled
1 Tbs dry rubbed sage
¼ tsp cinnamon
¼ tsp nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
1 to 1½ cups chicken stock

 Boil the potatoes till fork tender, then drain and allow to cool slightly. Brown the breakfast sausage and break up with a fork, and remove from the fat.  Add diced onions and spices to fat, sauté till tender.  Mash the potatoes, add the onions and spices, then season with salt and pepper.  Add chicken broth as necessary for texture.  Place in a rinsed turkey or bake in a pie pan (with or without crust) on the side.

You might be wondering about the difference between dressing and stuffing.  The only real difference is geography.  Northerners call it stuffing, while Southerner’s prefer dressing.  One of the most used components in southern dressing is corn bread.  Not what most of us consider corn bread, but a denser version that is cut and laid out to dry.  Corn bread has a much crumblier texture so the stuffing is much softer.

 Cornbread

make up to 2 days in advance
2 cup yellow cornmeal
2/3 cup plain flour
1 tsp salt
4 tsp baking soda
1 1/3 cup milk
2 eggs - beaten
6 Tbs veggie oil

Mix the dry ingredients, add the wet ingredients, then bake in a 9 x 13 pan for 20 to 25 minutes at 350 degrees.  Allow to sit out and dry for 24 to 48 hours.

 Corn Bread Stuffing

1½ cup celery - chopped
1½ cup onion - chopped
4 Tbs butter
3 cups turkey or chicken broth
1 tsp sage - ground

Sauté the onions and celery in butter, add sage, then add to the crumbled cornbread.  Add liquid to soften.  Now it is ready to stuff in your turkey and roast.

Many of you out there might have the addition of a vegetarian to your Thanksgiving table.  The question is what to serve that they will enjoy.  What about stuffing a pumpkin?  Small sugar pumpkins are perfect for this.  When choosing your pumpkin make sure that is labeled as a cooking pumpkin.  Choosse one medium size and free of blemishes, wash, cut off the top approximately a third of the way down.  You will need to scoop out the seeds and string, the rub the interior lightly with salt and pepper before stuffing.

You can use the pumpkin as an extra vessel for more stuffing (more stuffing is always great), or make it a dish of its own, with another stuffing.

1 can garbanzo beans - drained

2 small tart apples - chopped 1” pieces
1 small onion - diced
4 stalks celery - diced
4 Tbs butter (or olive oil if vegan)
4 cups (or less to fit) diced butter nut squash
1 tsp dried thyme

Sauté the onions and celery in butter, add thyme to release the flavor.  Mix all ingredients together.  Place in hollowed pumpkin, and bake uncovered at 350 degree for 45 minutes to 1 hour testing stuffing and pumpkin with a knife till tender. Enjoy

COTS Breakfast / Broccoli Cheddar Bake

We catered the COTS breakfast for 600 this past Wednesday.  Breakfast was on the table at 7am and the whole event went off quite nicely.  For the event we create a Broccoli Cheddar Bake, which is a dense breakfast casserole that can hold on to its heat and texture during the 20 minutes it takes to plate up 600 meals.  We've had several requests for the recipe, so enjoy...

Broccoli Cheddar Bake
Yields 1- 9x13 pan

1 red bell pepper diced

1 small onion diced
1 broccoli crown, blanched and chopped medium
2 T vegetable oil
1 c grated sharp cheddar cheese
3 c frozen shredded hash browns
1 c milk
4 eggs
2 c biscuit mix

Saute onions and peppers in vegetable oil till tender

Fold together with broccoli, potatoes and cheese
Mix milk, eggs and biscuit mix together
Pour over potato mixture
Bake 350 for approx. 45 minutes to  1 hours

Valentine's Day at Kunde Estate

We do a lot of work for and at Kunde Estate Winery, weddings, catering for winery tours, special events...  It's a great place with some lovely event venues, and, of course, the wine!  We're working with Kunde on their Valentine's Day romantic dinner and wine tasting.  The menu is styled as a romantic dinner and carefully paired with their wines.  This is going to be excellent.

Seared Sea Scallop with a Strawberry Avocado Relish

2008 Gewürztraminer

Dry Jack Risotto with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes and Rosemary

2008 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc

Braised Beef Short Ribs in Potato Cups with White Truffle Oil

2006 Syrah

Lamb Pop Chops

with a Rosemary, Garlic and Cocoa Wine Reduction

2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Lemon White Chocolate Mousse

(Amuse-Bouche / Palate Cleanser)

Hazelnut Espresso Daquoise

Dark Chocolate Chunks

Zinfandel Port

The Greens of Spring

Here's my April column from the Petaluma Post:

The brightest season of the year is upon us, when you think of green what do you think of?   Trees in bud?   The rolling hills?  Spring flowers?  A chef thinks of all of the fresh young produce that is beginning to hit the markets.  Peas, asparagus, spring onions, green garlic, artichokes, tender frilled mustard, the first peek of what is to come.

I love peas! I have been known after a long day to sit down with just a bowl of peas with a bit of butter; sometimes the simple things are the best.  But which peas to choose and did you know you can eat the plant too?   Pea tendrils are often used in Asian cuisine.  Snow peas, snap peas, English peas.  Snow peas are thin and flat with the interior seed undeveloped, you will often find them in Asian cuisine and they are a great addition to salads.  Snap peas are the midway point, well developed seeds but the pod is tender enough for cooking.  This pea is great sautéed or raw, very popular on veggies trays.  English peas are the classic pea that you would get frozen in your local grocery.  The shell is not edible and only the seeds are edible, thus the term shelling.

Sautéed Pea Tendrils with Shitakes and Garlic
Serves 2
8 oz shitake mushrooms, sliced
2 bunches pea tendrils – the youngest you can find- chop bunches into thirds
3 cloves garlic chopped
4 Tbl vegetable oil
2 Tbl light soy

Heat the oil in a large skillet.  Make sure the skillet is about twice as big as you think you need.  Sauté the garlic, being careful not to burn it.  Then add the mushrooms and continue to sauté, adding additional oil if necessary.  When tender, then add the pea sprouts.  Turn once or twice with tongs.  Add the soy sauce and cover to steam 2 to 3 minutes.  This is a great side dish with miso glazed salmon.  See my 1/12/2012 blog for the salmon recipe.

Peas pair great with fresh mint, the sweetness of the peas is a classic combination.  A simple salad of snap peas with mint and carrot is a great dish to add to the Easter menu.

Snap Pea Salad with Mint
2 lbs snap peas - look for the string less variety or you will need to string each pea
1 lbs julienned carrots- you can also find these prepared in your grocers case
2 stems fresh mint
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbl champagne vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

Lightly blanch the carrots and snap peas for 3 to 5 minutes, then ice to chill to stop the carry over cooking.  Combine oil, vinegar, salt and pepper into a light dressing.  Just before serving shred the mint, and combine all the ingredients.  Serve immediately.

Green garlic is another spring joy.  The young tender sprouts from garlic often pulled when thinning plant for greater productions.  It has the same flavor but not as spicy and pungent, it looks much like green onions.  When cutting and preparing use the same techniques as leeks, cutting from the white up into the green as long as it is tender, wash very well for sand.  It is a great flavor for soups.

Potato Bacon Green Garlic Soup
3 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 cup green garlic, thinly sliced
2 strips bacon, diced
2 Tbl olive oil
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
½ cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

Place oil, garlic and bacon in to a heavy bottom pot, and sauté till the bacon is crisp and the garlic is translucent, browning is ok but be careful not to burn.  Add potatoes, cover with stock and bring to a simmer.  Cook uncovered till the potatoes begin to fall apart.  Then puree with a hand blender.  Return to stove, add heavy cream and season to taste.

There is nothing that ushers in Spring like the thin crisp spears of asparagus, the queen of spring.  A favorite on the Easter table in my family.  With its delicate flavor and taste it is a great pairing with eggs.  A simple breakfast frittata is one of my favorites

Asparagus Frittata
Serves 2
½ cup chopped asparagus tips (also a great use for left overs)
4 eggs
½ cup crumbled Chèvre
2 Tbl olive oil
Pinch of salt and pepper

Place the eggs, salt and pepper in a bowl and mix well, being careful not to incorporate too much air.  Stir in the Chèvre.  Heat an 8” sautéed pan on the stove till hot, add oil, swirl to coat, then add the egg mixture.  Using a rubber spatula stir gently just around the edges.  As it be gins to set, turn off the heat, top with asparagus, and place in a 350 degree oven for 4 to 7 minutes, till set.  A great quick breakfast or serve with a salad for lunch.

Festa De Fondo

Here's the menu and photos from the Festa de Fondo, the gala opening night of the Gran Fondo at Paradise Ridge Winery.

 

Opening

Sweet Potato Coins with Chèvre and Tapenade

Zucchini Pancakes with Roasted Apple Relish

Fall Figs with Blue and Balsamic

Sundried Tomato and Cannellini Stuffed Crimini Mushrooms *

Fried Squash Blossoms with Chickpeas and Cashews

 

First Course

Compressed Tomato and Basil with Watermelon with Sherry & Wild Baby Arugula

Artisan Bread Basket

Marinated Olive Plates

 

Family Style

Carved Filet with Chimichurri

Pacific White Sea Bass with White Miso and Shitake Mushrooms

Green Pea Risotto *

Roasted Cherry Tomatoes

Rainbow Chard with Pine nuts*

Zucchini and Pepper Ragu*

*vegan

 

Dessert

Fall Pear Tart with Cinnamon

with

French Sipping Chocolate

and

Fresh Whipped Cream

 

 

“Brinner!”

Here's my next article from the Petaluma Post, enjoy...

We all rush off to work each day with a granola bar or bagel in hand.  Hardly the best way to start the day, but most of us do it.  Saturday or Sunday morning you might go out for brunch, but usually we just don’t have time for breakfast, but why can we only have it in the morning?  Breakfast food is great, so why not dinner.  In our house we call it “brinner”. 

You get home late from work, nothing is thawed and you’re hungry. Very likely there is a carton of eggs in the fridge; there are so many possibilities!  From a quick scramble to a frittata to French toast.  You can make a real and healthy (or not) meal, often easier than dinner, and it feels like a treat.

Frittatas are a great place to start.  This Italian egg dish can use up many of your leftovers in the fridge.  From chopped meats to veggies and grated cheese.

Frittata

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

6 eggs, beaten

 ½ tsp salt

¼ tsp pepper

1 oz grated cheese, you can use any you like, parmesan is great

1 cup of chopped filling

Broccoli, asparagus, potatoes, ham, sausage, mushrooms, and peppers all make great frittata filling.  The ingredients are endless.

Heat a 10 inch oven proof skillet with 1 tablespoon of oil.  Meanwhile beat the eggs with salt and pepper, then fold in cheese and filling.  Your pan should now be very hot (not smoking), so pour the egg mixture into pan, and stir with heat proof rubber spatula for 2 to 3 minutes.  Then transfer the pan to a 350 degree oven, and bake until the center is set.  If the frittata sticks, put it back on the stove top for just a minute of two and gently release with a rubber spatula.

Some of my favorite combinations are: Potato and Ham with Cheddar, Mushroom and Asparagus with Chèvre, and Cherry Tomatoes and Basil with Parmesan.

I love a tartine; this is an open faced warm sandwich. And to make it a bit more, I love to add a fried egg on top.

Tartine

1 slice hearty country bread

“Refrigerator Relish” (again anything in the fridge that you can chop up)

1 oz grated cheese, I recommend Cheddar or Jack

1 egg fried

Brush the bread with olive oil and toast lightly in the oven, then top with chopped veg and/or meats, then finish with grated cheese.  Bake at 350 degrees until the cheese is melted (about 5 minutes).  During this time cook your egg over easy.  Remove the tartine from oven top with egg.  I like it best served with a lightly tossed salad; to me salad is perfect to cut the richness of the eggs.  It’s best with a light vinaigrette.  By the way, Topsy, a new restaurant on Kentucky Street has this on the menu; it’s very good.

I love salad with my eggs.  I find that it cuts down on the richness.  So whether is this is breakfast for dinner, or dinner for breakfast, I like a very classic French salad called Salad Lyonnaise.  This is great at any time of day.

Salad Lyonnaise

2 strips bacon

1 T olive oil

1 Tbsp sherry vinegar

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp dijon mustard

2 eggs, poached or over easy (my favorite)

1 head frisee lettuce

1 slice toasted country bread

Cut the bacon into ½” pieces, then with olive oil sauté until crisp.  Set the bacon aside, and transfer the bacon drippings and oil to a mixing bowl, and allow to cool.  When cool add vinegar, sugar and dijon, whisk well.  Drizzle ½ of the this as the dressing over the frisee and toss well.  Place the frisee on the plate, and top with 1 fried egg

Top with cooked bacon and drizzle with remaining dressing, serve with toast.

When I was growing up I loved corn bread and one item my mom used to do was cornmeal pancakes.  A basic corn bread recipe (a bit thinner) cooked on the stove top.  Think of this with some bacon or sausages for dinner.

Cornmeal Pancakes

1 cup flour

1 cup cornmeal

2/3 cup sugar

1 tsp salt

3 tsp baking powder

1 egg

1 cup milk (add 2 Tbsp more if too thick)

1/3 cup veg oil

Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl.  In a separate bowl mix the wet ingredients.

Add the wet to the dry and stir well.  Allow to sit 10 minutes, then check the thickness for pancake batter consistency; add extra milk if necessary.  Heat your pan or grill to a medium heat and scoop the batter to preferred size.  Once bubbles have formed turn over and cook 2 to 3 more minutes.  Serve warm.

And if you have a bit more time, a quiche (also a good way to clean out the fridge) with a salad it always nice, served warm or room temperature.  So, next time you get home late, put on your PJs and make some brinner.